A Swiss in the Park

Canoe-Camping in Réserve Faunique La Vérendrye: Circuit 15 - Poulter Loop, a Journey to Remember

Day 1: Challenging Headwinds, Tricky Portages, and Playful Otters

On August 1st, we set off from Le Domaine at 9:40 am. The day was marked by strong headwinds, making our paddle across Lac Jean-Péré quite challenging. We were delighted to spot several playful otters in the waters as we battled the winds. Despite being seasoned Algonquin Park adventurers, we found these winds to be particularly relentless. As we moved on, we encountered some easier portages than those in Algonquin Provincial Park. However, the portage access in Lac de la Voie wasn't where it was marked on the map but more to the south near the river.

Lac Poulter greeted us with the same headwinds. We had initially aimed for campsite 15-26, but it was occupied. We settled for campsite 15-28 near kilometre 15. By 13:40, after about four hours of paddling, our camp was set. The evening was spent prepping wood for a fire, watching the sunset, taking a short swim, and indulging in a delicious Mexican dinner followed by a chocolate mud pie pudding dessert. The night was colder than expected for August, with temperatures dropping to 8°C.

Day 2: Calm Waters, Dramatic Skies, and Wildlife Encounters

We woke up to a serene morning on August 2nd. While Sandra focused on the camp takedown, Robert prepped our morning coffee and breakfast and sorted our gear and snacks for the day. Our efficient routine, honed over years of tripping, allowed us to set up or tear down camp in under an hour if required. However, this morning was more relaxed.

The water was calm, and the dramatic clouds painted a breathtaking backdrop. We paddled 13 kilometres in just a few hours, aided by a tailwind and the river's flow. Along the way, we encountered many ducks. One particularly memorable sight was a mother duck trailed by an impressive 21 ducklings. An eagle graced the sky above us, casting its majestic shadow on the river below. We chose to set camp at site 15-62, where we had stopped for lunch just before the first rapids on Rivière des Rapides.

The evening was memorable with games of Yahtzee (Sandra was the undisputed champion), a warm fire, and a hearty dinner of lasagna, chicken pot pie, and crème brûlée. As darkness enveloped the camp, we could sense a storm approaching. We anchored down in our tent for the night. Our foresight in identifying two dead trees near our camp proved crucial. These trees were unstable and, with a simple push, we brought them down. Once on the ground, we cut them into firewood, emphasizing the importance of not cutting live trees. We left ample cut wood for the next group - a gesture of good karma. The importance of carrying a saw and a hatchet in the backcountry is worth noting.

Day 3: Rapids, Portages, Sunset Magic Amidst a Storm, and Nature's Beauty

For breakfast, we typically enjoy a cheese omelette featuring Balderson cheddar cheese. However, Rob had forgotten the cheese this time, prompting us to get creative. With Sandra's suggestion, we replaced the Balderson with dehydrated moon cheese. Adding the moon cheese directly to the egg pouch as we rehydrated it, we were treated to a tasty, cheesy, and crunchy delight – a surprising and delightful twist to our field omelette breakfast.

Post breakfast, we began our journey downstream to Lac Jean-Péré. The day consisted of navigating small rapids and three muddy, wet portages. We spotted more otters along the way and observed a loon teaching her young how to take off and fly. The day's challenge was to island-hop against the wind to Baie Keiney, and then proceed to a 400m portage to Baie Menard. Our destination was campsite 10-32.

As we settled in, an afternoon storm approached. Fortunately, we had our tarp set up. We anchored down beneath it and played Yahtzee while waiting for the storm to pass, which lasted about an hour. The breathtaking sunset that evening, with the lake mirroring the clouds, was a magical moment. Dinner was our favorite pouch meals: pad Thai and a blueberry peach crumble. Each night at sunset, the soulful calls of loons echoed across the lakes, a serene reminder of nature's beauty.

Day 4: Another Flavorful Breakfast and a Swift Homeward Journey

We started our day with a hearty breakfast of black beans chili, complemented with tortillas. Taking another culinary adventure, we added moon cheese to the chili, discovering that it works well in omelettes and adds a delightful twist to chili.

Setting off for the day, the paddle down the river to Lac Jean-Péré was nothing short of amazing. We paddled steadily, and with the aid of a pleasant tailwind, we had the chance to
surf a significant section of the lake. Skillfully navigating around the islands, we made our way to Le Domaine with high spirits.

For anyone considering this adventure, I'd recommend planning a trip during the weekdays. Starting our journey on a Tuesday morning allowed us to enjoy the tranquility as the reserve was practically empty. However, the place was bustling with activity by the time we concluded our adventure on Friday.

Note on Facilities and Camping:

Upon arrival at Le Domaine, one can't help but appreciate the excellent facilities at the launch point. The Sépaq office is equipped with basic gear, and the staff are helpful and provide valuable information and maps. The convenience of showers, toilet facilities, and ample parking space is noteworthy for those planning their trips. Additionally, for those looking to get an early start, there are several spots to pitch tents and camp near the launch point. As far as I'm aware, these are not reservable campsites and are available on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Wrapping Up

Our choice of the prospector 16.6 kevlar, wood canoe ( ) was perfect for this adventure. The trip's cost was reasonable, with the canoe rental for four days at $200 and park fees at $110 for three nights.

Réserve faunique La Vérendrye treated us to nature's beauty and unpredictability, reminding us of the importance of preparation and the value of shared experiences. We'll be back.