L'Ouvre-Boîte

J-23 !! Dernière ligne droite et fin aujourd'hui de l'avant dernier stage Equipe de France de Bloc avant Bercy!

Nous serons bientôt fin prêt pour attaquer ces championnats du monde, on rentre dans du spécifique avec des circuits qui reflètent le plus possible un scénario qui pourrait arriver à Bercy.

Big up à L'Ouvre-Boîte pour les circuits qu'ils nous ont proposées vendredi et samedi, c'était cool!

Mise en place mentale de plus en plus précise au coté de Christophe Bichet et petite séance de vitesse pour moi ce matin!

Prochain stage la semaine prochaine!

photo: The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

Block'Out
Cheeta

Un des clients de l'Ouvre-Boîte, les salles de bloc Arkose cherchent à recruter des ouvreurs pour leurs futures salles. Si vous êtes intéressé(e), contactez Steve Guillou ([email protected]) pour plus de renseignements !

Arkose Leader de la culture de l'escalade.

First World Cup Boulder of the season in Meiringen (Switzerland) in 2 days. Last rehearsal for the French Team few days ago in our problems. Stay focused, strong and have fun!

French Athlete Manu Cornu almost at the Top on Men's #1 at the competition we set last week in Arkose

Je me suis rendu à Arkose samedi dernier pour un contest riche en émotions! Mon but étant toujours de retrouver des sensations autour de ma cheville et reprendre mes marques en compétition. Je sors troisième des qualifs avec 29 blocs sur 30, ce qui me qualifie en finale: 3blocs/4min! Un premier bloc où je manques de réussite.. étant le seul dans la méthode, je tombe tout en haut après un bon combat.. un peu frustré de ne pas concrétiser mais content de mon effort dans mon anti-style! Le deuxième bloc, lui, est complètement dans mon style, des plats et un mouv aléatoire, je lâche 2 runs un peu idiot au tout début du bloc en zippant sur un graton avant de le sortir au troisiéme essai! Et le dernier bloc sera une contorsion entre 2 volumes, un bloc qui aurait pu devenir un calvaire... j'ai la chance de vite comprendre le mouvement pour me redresser dans mon premier essai! Je finis donc 2éme du contest derrière Alban Levier, qui n'aura lâché que le premier bloc de finale sur cette compétition, le podium sera complété par Vincent Prot! S'Cape Fontainebleau PICTURE ORGANIC CLOTHING

Honored to have Tondé Katiyo as our chief setter for NK Lead 28 November! "If I do my job well the best climber that day will shine". Curious who this man is? Some Q&A's:

-> Can you tell us something about yourself?

"My name is Tondé, my Passport is french but i grew up in Zimbabwe, in southern Africa until i was 15. I started climbing there in an old granite quarry with one of my teachers and now good friends. I now live in Montreal Canada with my wife and 4 year old daughter."

-> When did you start setting routes and what’s so special about it?

"I started setting in 1995 almost by accident. I stumbled into a room where they were giving a route setting course, and the instructor, who knew me told me to sit down and be quite, so I did. What i like about it is that is is like a weird and complicated way to communicate with others. A language made up of feeling and movement and power and drive."

-> Do you set routes for a living?

"I have been a professional setter since 2009 although it has been a large part of my life for longer than that. Over time the conditions for professional setting have become better. Better pay, better recognition of the need of good setting in the industry, but we still have some ways go. My life is pretty nice, I am lucky enough now to be asked to come and set for really nice events all over the world and I also have a base gym. But it is still tough work. It is difficult to time being in shape and being inspired perfectly for big event."

-> What does the perfect final route look like?

"For me the perfect route is one that will tell a great story to the audience and give the climbers strong feelings that inspire them to do their best. It’s like a good book. But it’s difficult to do, it involves a lot of risk and when you fail, you just look incompetent because you didn't play it safe. I like the challenge though!"

-> How do you prepare for a job like setting for the Dutch NK? Do you know the participants?

"The past competitions and jobs have required me to be in better bouldering shape, so four to six weeks before the competition i slowly transition my climbing to being comfortable on a rope. I do my best to do research on past competitions and the athletes. I know some of them but I think my information is out of date especially for the younger climbers."

-> Do you have a favorite for the Dutch champion?

"As a setter i cannot have favorites, and actually not knowing the field so well is an advantage because it is easier to be impartial. I want to create a situation where there are opportunities for all each climber to express their strengths but also have to tackle their weaknesses. If I do my job well the best climber that day will shine. Everyone has a good day, who will have one on nov 28?"

Et pendant ce temps, l’Équipe de France de bloc repasse nous voir à Montreuil.

1er stage équipe de France .

Arriver au sommet! Seul objectif !

Viparis Accueillir l'extraordinaire à Paris > http://www.viparis.com !

Petite interview sur la qualité en ouverture.

Ep.34 w/ Tonde Katiyo "The Idea of Quality" Tonde Katiyo on circuits in the climbing gym, re-defining how we talk about climbing, and the idea of quality

Climb Expo