EV Support

As you dont seem to be able to get replacement shock bearings for the Hisun Sector / E1 we have sourced parts to enable replacement. The bearings and seals are the same front and back, but the small spacers are 10mm bolt front and 12mm bolts rear. We have had new stainless steel bushes made to replace the original rusty / non existent steel bushes. The new bearings have a PTFE liner so may well last longer. Sold as a shock set , not axle set . Cost in the UK is £21+ £3.20 carriage+ VAT.

Been thinking of the issues we have seen on E1s that have come in.
These are some of them. And what we have found.
When ever working on the pack ensure you use insulated tools, especially when you drop a spanner or ratchet. It will make a good mess if it shorts any of the battery connections.
Poor range reported and low voltage code. We have regularly found loose cable lugs, but not loose bolts. These were as a result of missing washers, and the bolts being too long / bottoming out. Not always the bolt too long, just the threaded hole too short. Always check when doing up or checking the battery cable connections that not only is the bolt tight, but the cable lug is as well. If the bolt is tight but lug still loose check it has a single spring washer and a flat washer. And if its still loose add another stainless flat washer. Back out the screw and check the thread is clear.
Battery has poor range and goes flat in a couple of weeks if not used.
The DC to DC is always on, if however the 12v battery is in a poor state that will mean the pack is being drawn down by the 12v system constantly requiring power to remain powered .
This assumes you have not added kit that puts a constant drain on the pack. Ie radio, Tracker etc.
When servicing/ every 6 months / when you see pack getting low. (in europe push the big red button) disconnect the main pack . Take off one cable connection Insulate tape the exposed lug. Put a test meter on the 12v battery and record the voltage. Leave it for a few hours. Test again. If not remaining well over 12v then the 12v battery is likely to be in a poor condition and should be changed,
Changing is easier to do if you remove the side panel and the leg panel.or just the leg panel.
Debris under the seat area.
This we see a lot. Easy to get 20kg of mud out.
Remove the steel belly pan and the front plastic under shield. Remove the tunnel cover on the front floor.
Issues. The screws used are m6 with a small head (Not std 10mm but 8mm) ONLY use a six point socket. 12 point will round off the screw. Undo a half turn tighten a bit , unscrew further tighten a bit etc .
If there is a lot of mud the belly pan can be really heavy. Put a trolley jack under it to support while you remove the screws.
With all of this removed you can readily clean out the whole battery area. Wash between the batteries under the front floor etc etc .
We also remove the side panel screws they are horrible crosshead and are usually impossible to get out . Hit them with a hammer first. We mostly shift the bad ones by cutting two opposite sides off and using a vice grip to slowly work the screws out. We then re-tap m6 . Removing the arch guard can be virtually impossible the inner chassis rail screw is really hard to shift. Hammer and center punch can work.
Re assembly. We retap all of the m6 screw hole/ thread. We replace all screws with stainless m6 fl**ge head with 18/20mm stainless washers. With the rear arch shield we now put 3+ washers between the plastic panel and the chassis, this allows water to drain. Greasing screws is also worthwhile.
With Lead batteries clean and grease the terminals.
We have never found any of the rubber boots used on the power cables to not have split and many fall off. Either replace with vinyl versions or have some small cable ties handy to hold the covers onto the lug end of the cables.
Chargers.
Make sure the small cover to the USB port (Drivers side near the display) is not open. If it is this needs to be dried and (gently With a plastic tool) excavated. We then tape this closed using two pieces of tape (Your choice we use fabric loom tape)
Blow out the debris around the fan. If this looks bad consider removing the battery charger , dismantling the fan / cover and cleaning more heavily.
If you disconnect the charger. Remember the battery cables are live. SPLIT the pack to ensure this isnt the case. All the covers and power connections are Torx. Note the way the two small wires are connected, these go to the charge LED and need to go back on the same spade /pin they came off.
On the worst vehiucles we offer the owners a polycarbonate shield covering the front ,sides and top of the charger. All held on with cable ties.
Sill entry /cover plates, We take out the hex key screws and use m6 stainless countersink screws (around 16mm long) Looks better and doesnt rust.
Just a few pointers to help get the best from yoiur E1

Recently had a customer with a C1 that had a completely rusted rear battery box. We made this one from Zintec (Zinc plated not galvanised sheet) steel, after welding we did not powder coat but painted it . Hopefully this will now outlast the car. Fairly simple folded sections welded together

We have had a few Hisun E1 users who have had issues with Mud etc in the charger fans. We did a cover a couple of years ago, but just done a new design . Its really hard to see clear plastic so I left the white transit cover on to give a better idea of what it looks like . This is 4 sections of PET G (Similar to polycarbonate but easier to bend). and is basically held in place by wide cable ties. This stops the worst of the splashing / debris but doesnt reduce the airflow when charging. This was the prototype one but the ones we now make to order are basically the same. The top (has a folded front), bolts onto the front sheet. Otherwise its impossible to get it in through the frame. Sides go on and the sides and front cable tied to the frame. Only mod is having to cut the cable tie that holds the wiring on the drivers side front upright of the frame, put the side sheet on and then cable tie over the panels the frame and the cable.