The Burning Plank

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Finished product of the double sided carve. A little sanding to smooth out some machine marks and the butcher block oil for the finish.

Trying my hand at a double sided carve tonight, we’ll see how it goes!

Of course using the only bits I use now from 1/16tbn for the first side finishing pass!

Getting a little help in the “shop” this past weekend! Teaching the more messy parts of the wood working! We also discussed alternating the end grains as to best avoid cupping by talking about if you have a smiley grain, then you need a frowny face grain to follow it.

The sign measures just shy of a full 3’x2’ in size. Made from spalted maple picked from and then carved out using all bits from . Clearing pass was done with .25 upcut endmill at 180ipm, 18K rpm. Finishing pass done with the 1/8” tbn at 200ipm at 16500 rpm. And then the v-carve was the 90 degree vintage running at 60ipm, 17000rpm. Cut out using the .25 downcut endmill at 120ipm, 17500 rpm.

All of this of course wouldn’t be possible without the X-50 journeyman onefinity CNC platform!

Before and after oiling. Increased the overall size to 18”x18”, and I’m thinking about going even bigger next time!

Thank you again to for the amazing file, to for the amazing bits used at every step along the way, and for the machine that never stop’s amazing me! (I paid for all this along the way, no sponsors… although I wouldn’t say no 😉)

Making what I hope will be the ultimate silent auction item! Working with the .25 upcut and down cut endmills for clearing, then switching to the 1/16th TBN all from

Running speeds at 180ipm for clearing, and up to 300ipm for detailed work all on the

Thank you to for the amazing file! I increased the size overall, and the. Increase the size of the word Colorado.

Used the 1/16th and 1/32nd inch TBN from and clearing was done with .25 upcut endmill.

Carved on the

Used tbn 1/16 and 1/32 bits, along with their .25” upcut endmill for clearing.

Carved on the

Starting from some rough cut s2s dimension cherry wood, I cut a 6 foot board down to 3 pieces 20 inches long by 6.25 inches wide.

Next I used a little hot glue to secure them to a flat piece of MDF I use to put them through my Dewalt 13 inch planer. The glue keeps the pieces from wobbling and moving while I get one side flattened.

After that I’ll remove them from the MDF and send them back through on the other side, ensuring I have two perfectly flat parallel sides to the wood.

I throw them through the jointer next, making on of the edges a 90 degree angle to the face of the board.

Then it’s to the table saw where I set the blade to about a little over a quarter inch above the wood height and run the jointed edge of all three pieces along the saw fence. This gives my second edge a 90 degree cut to the board face, and also ensures all three of my pieces are now the same width.

Next it’s glue up time! I do a dry fit of the boards before glueing to ensure everything is fitting together correctly and the way I want. It also lets me change any boards around for the best look. IMPORTANT: always alternate your wood grains so help prevent any wood bowing or warping. Doing this basically makes the wood fight against itself and will help maintain a flat surface.

After that, it’s time for the glue! Don’t use an excessive amount, but make sure you do cover the surface. Glue squeeze out is fine! Just wipe off the excess. Your boards will want to float with the glue in between the joints. Places materials and clamps to ensure the boards stay even with one another.

Now I just have to wait about 4 hours until I can unclamp and 24 hours for a full cure of the glue.

This board glue up will turn into a cnc carved plaque for a Lockheed Martin employee.