29/07/2022
Took a solid 8-10m fall on the canoe last weekend with Kyle. Wild ride!
The day was planned to climb the scary sketchy! I needed to get out of my comfort zone a bit. Too much time climbing the same climbs lately. Kyle was keen but I had the sharp end all day so he doesn’t risk injury during his last firefighter training block before graduation.
Sure, let’s do it, the day was going well, and Kyle recommended having a crack at barbed wire canoe. A renowned scary and committing line. “It’s , kinda, safe” he says with too big of a grin to make me believe him.
The climbings good, but I’m not super feeling the small gear, so I take a few sits to work things out, but the climbing flows well and there doesn’t seem to be any stopper cruxes.
At the last stance before committing to the runout, managed to get in 4 rps and a 0 cam in a shallow slot. After semi committing I took a small fall on the gear from about 2m and everything held.
Working out the beta, up I went, eventually reaching a good stance on the arete about 3m above the gear. Kyle gave me some encouraging words, ever calm and collected, and after a few ups and downs I committed to the last few moves.
S**t, next stance isn’t as good as I thought, breathe, ball nuts, that’s next, s**t where are the ball nuts, ok got them. In the teeth, find the right one, in it goes, nope, it’s s**t, wrong size and a bit stuck, shake out, adjust ball nut, won’t come out, shake out, and….. ball nuts all fall out on the same biner and sail through@the air to the ground. Ohhhhhh fkkkk… shake out, nah I’m coming off, me “I’m coming off” , Kyle “ ahhhh s**t, you got it, uhh don’t come off” me “fk I’m off!”
Falling, falling, slight tug and “pop pop pop” Falling, “ shiiiiiiiiiiiiittttt” falling Kyle’s mind “f**k, I’ve killed him”, Falling, another tug, “pop” falling. Anddd boiingggg… “oh, hey Kyle, holllyy fkkkkk” Laughter from both of us. Then serious looks, “you ok?”, “uhh I think? So?”
All ended well, got scared, pushed out of the comfort zone, but this needed to happen to start progressing again out at frog. Huge thanks for kyle for the catch and encouragement.