Ian Welsted Guiding

Well, we did it again.

It's a couple of weeks since we got to the top of the Rockies. This time felt special for a number of reasons, but mostly because of the great group we went as.

Pete and I continued our "lucky streak" after Waddington a few years ago and Assiniboine in snowy conditions last year.

Keith Daellenbach from Portland, who had attempted the mountain three times previously and has a wild story about witnessing a rescue just below the Done, and some of the shenanigans involved there.

But mostly seeing Connor Arnason moving confidently into independent guiding, giving Keith a trip he will always remember. Keith said he had 5 mountains on his lifetime wishlist, and had almost written off Robson after his third attempt ended at the Dome.

By the time we were in Valemount at the Moose pub Keith was experiencing such post summit bliss that he was telling the server what a cool town it was and that he was bringing his family up for a trip.

That night camping out in the open Keith had to scramble into a tent when a heavy rain squall blew through, dumping lots of snow on the mountain. We've had a couple of snowstorms since then up high, so peak summer season on the monarch of the range is over and we only have the memories left.

Great memories made and great times shared with fun people, what more could you ask for in a summer?

After years of looking up at N'chkay solstice provided the opportunity to climb it with Rob from Wales.

The perfect granite of The Chief is hard to say no too, but the early Monday morning views over Howe Sound put this amazing place in perspective. So much steep terrain packed into an oceanside mecca, it made me realize I should investigate further. Views of the Tantalus across the way had me considering trying out the second most popular alpine objective above town.

Rab North America
C.A.M.P. USA Outdoor
La Sportiva North America

It was a distinct pleasure and a highlight of the season to climb Polar Circus with .

It is a tricky one to get in safe conditions but as Avalanche.ca says,

"Polar Circus is likely the most sought-after ice climb in the world and is the ultimate route for an ice climber to tick off. " That is no doubt some Canadian hyperbole but none the less it is an incredible climb.

Pete and I summited Waddington together, now Polar Circus, I wonder what is next.

Dinner in Banff the next day with his lovely wife confirmed the need to treat these big objectives with the respect they deserve. Pete has always been good about saying that if the mountain isn't in condition we can do something else. He also told me that a highly respected Ouray guide told him he should save Polar Circus for when he had more experience, so glad we exceeded expectations;)

Thanks for another great trip Pete!


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Why climb Murchison when you could drytool 300 meters left of it and then make a spectacular traverse back to rappel it?

A fine day with Blake and Gavin, and a stellar Alberta character at YYC:)

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