Jay Favel - First Gen SkiDoo Rev

An easy way to remove the self piercing rivets when just grinding the head flush isn’t an option, like when removing the rear cooler, is to drill from the back and then punch the rest of the rivet out.

I use a 3/8” cobalt drill, regular HSS drills will dull quickly. Drill most of the material off the back but leave a small amount sitting proud of the surface. You can smooth it out afterwards.

An air hammer makes quick work of punching the rest out. Use something solid to go around the head of the rivet. A 10mm socket works good, I use a piece of a jack shaft as it has more weight to it. Then use an air hammer on the back while pushing against the other side to make it solid.

If you don’t have an air hammer, 2 people using a hammer and punch and something solid will work too.

Video posted separately.

03 to 09 Ski-Doo Rev Bulkhead / Nun Brace Kits / Coolant and Oil Sleeves / Clutch Spacers

These 🍁MADE IN MANITOBA🍁 Bulkhead Braces and Coolant/Oil Tank Sleeves are A MUST for every 03 to 09 first gen Ski-Doo Rev chassis.

90%+ of Rev chassis sleds are already tweaked or bent, yes even the majority of the ones for sale listed as "mint", "straight" etc, I've stripped over 75 of them, which is how I know EVERY Rev chassis can benefit from these braces.

This brace kit is designed to reinforce and/or repair your 2003 to 2009 SkiDoo Rev bulkhead. If anything is bent, you need to straighten that first before adding the braces. These have been designed from and tested on multiple chassis' to assure proper fitment and precise bend angles that fit the chassis exactly as intended making them the absolute best fitting brace kit for Revs available.

Includes 3 pieces for exhaust side, 1 piece for clutch side, 2 nun corner braces, lower steering brace and stainless steel hardware. Basic installation instructions included, a pneumatic rivet gun is needed to pull the included stainless rivets.

Nun Corner Braces and inner exhaust side piece are .100”, the outer exhaust side pieces and steering brace are .125” and the clutch side is .188”. All pieces are 5052 H32 aluminum. Rivets are 3/16" multi grip with stainless body and stainless mandrel with 950 lbs shear strength and 1050 lbs tensile strength. Nun to bulkhead bolts are stainless 5/16-24. Steering brace bolts are zinc plated steel.

✔️Brace kits, sleeves, spacers are made in Manitoba, Canada.

🔹Prices for Canada
$235 shipped for full length 7 piece kit
$175 shipped for short 7 piece kit
$30 spacer to float secondary clutch for reduced belt/clutch heat and wear
$33 (pair) coolant and oil tank sleeves shipped ($20 if buying braces)
$23 for either coolant or oil tank sleeve shipped

🔹Prices for US
$195 USD shipped for full length 7 piece kit, including AK
$145 USD shipped for short 7 piece kit, including AK
$35 USD for clutch spacer shipped ($25 is buying braces)
$35 USD for coolant and oil sleeves shipped ($20 if buying braces)
$25 USD for coolant sleeve shipped

All orders are shipped from Lockport, Manitoba.

The coolant sleeve and oil sleeves are another must for every Rev. If your coolant cap is hard to get on and off, leaks or your oil cap leaks, these sleeves will make the hole round and keep it round so the caps can seal/install/remove as intended.

The clutch spacer allows the secondary clutch to float for better clutch alignment, allowing for reduced heat in the clutches/belt, and longer belt life and more power getting to the track.

Tracking or proof of shipping provided promptly, PayPal "goods and services" for US, etransfer, PayPal or credit cards through Square for Canadians.

Added a couple more options for the exhaust and PTO side braces and testing a few other pieces.

Are your shocks mounted correctly?

Here's some pictures to help explain why it matters what side the piggy back shocks are mounted on.

The piggy back reservoir should be aligned to fit inside the a arms rather than coming into contact with them.

This is a bent rod from a hydro locked 800 due to a leaking center crank seal. Sled was stored in the off season with a full tank of oil. The owner had poured fuel in each cylinder after it not wanting to start and accomplished this on his third try.

Second picture is where the oil level will drop to if a center crank seal is leaking. That’s the level where the fill line connects to fill the center cavity.

Excessive oil usage, oil in the exhaust pipe, oil on floor under muffler when sleds running, can be signs of a leaky center crank seal.

If you have these symptoms, don’t store the sled for extended periods with the oil tank full.

To power up the gauges on a Rev that doesn't run, find the diagnostics connector next to the coolant bottle and unplug it from it's cover. I popped out the green plastic piece to expose the pins more but you don't need to. Put power to the middle pin on the right and ground to the bottom pin on the left and the gauges will power up.