Solstice Alpine Guides

09/09/2026

09/02/2026

Stacked rappels.

07/17/2026

Practice, practice and yes more practice. Keep your systems simple - if you are having difficulties while practicing on the ground - your method is to complex, which leads to errors.

On January 30, 2024, a climber fell while cleaning an anchor on a sport route at The Pond area in Queen Creek, Arizona. The fall resulted in her death.

In this month's Prescription, Pete Takeda shares an analysis of the incident, starting with a discussion on unusual knots, including the alpine butterfly, and how simplifying a system can reduce risk—especially for beginner climbers.

Read the full analysis, reflecting on this account from 2025's Accidents in North American Climbing 🔗 https://bit.ly/3QIBN4Q

Editor’s Note: We published this report in 2025. A good point has been made that any knot—like a figure 8 on a bight—might lead to the same result if used as a mid-rope tie-in/clip-in point. The butterfly knot is less a culprit than the location where it was tied.

📷 An example of an alpine butterfly. Image by AAC staff member Katie McGowan

07/08/2026

07/08/2026

Are you an excellent communicator with a passion for sharing your avalanche safety skills? There's still time to apply for our youth outreach and education instructor positions. Applications close July 15.
Learn more at www.avalanche.ca/careers

06/24/2026

Excellent advice regarding Emergency Communication devices in the event you need emergency assistance. You should always have some form of communication equipment .

06/24/2026