12/01/2020
WAVE SELECTION | Water movements. Too much water, backwash, windy conditions. Understand and catalogue in your mind the patterns of water movement and the ""WHY"" that wave was awesome and the next three had no potential. π π Location: / Photographer:
28/12/2019
SURF BASICS | Surfing is special: Take a step back after that session that was too windy or you couldn't surf your best because of the challenging conditions. Most people will never get to enjoy the pleasure to surf a green wave. Wanting to be better is normal, however overthink things and you'll loose the perspective of those precious moments. π§ ππ¬βοΈ Location: @ Westward Ho, Devon, United Kingdom
02/12/2019
OBSERVATION | Read the bottom of the wave. argue in the podcast that learning how to read the bottom of the wave is more important than reading the top half. Learning to predict what the wave is going to do by understanding, feeling the water movements and energy zone of the wave. That podcast is dense with knowledge and in 6 minutes it explains what people would take years to apply. I simply love this. Keep up the good work! Nothing sent me back to conscious incompetence (concept uses a lot) like this podcast did, in years! βπ½π
21/11/2019
MINDSET | Dawnies. They are a staple of surfing as most of us have jobs that always clashes with incoming swells. Waking up early, drive down the beach in the dark, changing in the π₯Ά of a winter morning to surf 45mins to an hour before getting to work, is the harsh reality. But when you get over that first ice cream π¦ head and get your first peeler, itβs all worth it then. βοΈππ―π₯ Gear:
21/11/2019
OBSERVATION | Know your local area. I stumbled across this book and was pleased to see so many waves I know and some I didnβt! In his book SURFING MOODS Jon Bowen start his introduction by: βThe south west peninsula of England has an embarrassment of riches in beaches and surf. We have long
golden beaches and rugged cliffs, hidden coves and offshore reefs. As the sport of surfing becomes
more popular, the famous surfing beaches of Newquay or Croyde become more cramped, but for those
willing to explore there are empty waves to be had.β The search continues... π₯βοΈπ¬π
17/11/2019
MANΕUVRES | Position of the feet. When performing manoeuvres the back foot must be on top of the back of the two fins (except in certain occasions i.e: speed gen) . It is imperative to focus on the placement of the feet during the pop up phase of the take-off. Good foot placement gives you more control of the rail in the water. π¦Άππ₯π― Location: Croyde / Surfer: / Photographer: .chris
16/11/2019
MINDSET | Cold water surfing. Brace yourself for 8*C waters and Northerly winds. Every year surf progression becomes difficult due to winter challenging weather conditions and cold water in π¬π§. Getting the right equipment will certainly enable you to stay longer in the water but also keep your body warm and not seize up. offer moulded to your feet boots that allows less water to get in and a better feel of the board under foot. did a short review on these and Iβd recommend them to anyone but especially people with not model like feet like mine! π¦ΆπβοΈπ¬π₯ Location: / Photographer:
12/11/2019
SURF BASICS | Water movement. Too much water, lines , windy conditions. Understand and catalogue in your mind the patterns of water movement and the "WHY" that wave was awesome and the next three have no potential. πππ¨ Location: / Surfer: Unknown/ Photographer: .chris
08/11/2019
OBSERVATION | Surfing sub-standard conditions. Autumn has been pretty tricky this year on the North Devon coast π¬π§. Short, onshore waves that requires excellent reading and wave entry. Never underestimate the importance of a good timely take off, especially in sub optimal waves. Get training!!! π―ππ₯ Location: / Surfer: / Photographer:
05/11/2019
SURF BASICS | Low to high centre of gravity. The pop up is a movement that will bring high instability as you are transitioning from a low center of gravity (lying down) to a high centre of gravity (standing up). The commun mistake is to straighten your legs right out after the pop up to finish the "standing up" action. This will result most of the time in the person wiping out. Keep a low centre of gravity when popping up, STIFFENESS = INSTABILITY. Stay nice and low, have a feline approch, stable, agile, yet ready for dynamic movements. π¦ π± π π₯ Location: / Surfer: / Photographer:
03/11/2019
SURF BASICS | Surf values: Defining what get you to spend countless hours in the water, summer or winter. Braving sub optimal surf conditions to only be happy with one turn out of a 2 hours session will help you keep the flame alive! Keep feeding that fire, know yourself and get stoked! π₯π¦β‘οΈ Location: / Surfer: / Photographer: