Morocco Rock

FAULTY TOWERS : News Flash
Recently, several climbers have been approached by the village elder, who feels he has some responsibility for the goings on, in and around the village of Lazal, which is situated down the hill to the south of Faulty Towers, June Slabs & Ka Kaa Wall...
Mr Lazal has been 'insisting' quite strongly that climbing is forbidden at the crag and climbers must not climb here - this is NOT the case - he has even asked to see passports on some occasions.
We have also had this experience but continued to go climbing nonetheless.. we checked with Jamal from the Kasbah Tizourgane (who is a respected member/official of the local tourist association), in case there was some sensitivity issue around climbing in this area which we may be unaware of - and apparently this is not the case.
Mquadim Lazal comes up with various reasons for why he is "adamant" that climbers should not climb at Faulty Towers - the recent earthquake in The High Atlas being the most recent reason, but he does usually walk away eventually. The earthquake did not affect The Anti-Atlas.
A regular climber we have been in touch with, who climbs frequently in the area, has had conversations with Mr Lazal's son, as well as the Mqadim from a different area "Lahsen", who has confirmed there is no reason for Mqadim Lazal to try and stop climbing here - it appears to be a generational issue, with Mr Lazal struggling to adjust to the changing times..and being misguided about his 'actual' responsibility regarding the "safety" of tourists.
So, climbers may continue to climb here, and take responsibility for themselves but please remain respectful and courteous to the locals, while pursuing your passion, as sometimes communication can be difficult with the locals and misunderstandings can occur.

The photo is of Tom Rogers on the excellent 'Hot Rats' HVS 5a on the shady right (east) end of this superb crag.

Lovely to climb with good friend Chris Horobin today at one of my favourite haunts. Madman Point. Home to the atmospheric 'Madhatters Tea Party'. Arguably the steepest 5a pitch in Pembroke (and thus The Uk)(and hence Thd World).

Excellent News! Morocco are opening its borders, as of 7th February 2022. It's been about 2 years since we climbed in The Anti-Atlas Mountains and cant wait to get back out there this Spring and use the new guidebook. For more info go to www.moroccorock.com

Oh dear looks like Morocco has closed its doors again..hopefully not for too long! We'll just have to make do with dreaming for now! Stefan Morris on the popular Wall Street, E1 and Mike Burrows on Razzle Dazzle, VS.

Great stuff! You can now book trips to Morocco so get your Winter Climbing A--- out to the Anti-Atlas for the some of the best trad climbing anywhere! As Mike Twid Turner, Graham Desroy and Pete Johnson can testify!
Go to www.moroccorock.com for the new guide and all the new routes to date!

In the new Morocco Rock guidebook there are some great new crags to aim for - if planning a trip next autumn!
A wonderful selection of Severe's - HVS at Alma Slabs and Battle Buttress, and also some single pitch and easily accessible routes from HS up to E2 on Porcupine Wall.
Some novelty value at Owl Rock (or is that a pussycat?)
And some harder test pieces, including 3 classic E5's at The Lizard.
All featured within Tizi South, an area conveniently close to the Kasbah Tizourgane.
Each week we'll feature some stunning new climbs, at new crags, and even whole new areas not documented before, to be found in the Morocco Rock new guidebook...
So much for climbers to look forward to on their next trip, not to mention the well-established classics!

See www.moroccorock.com for the "bargain triple deal" Christmas promotional offer - A massive 20% discount available for a limited time only when all 3 are bought together - The bumper select Anti-Atlas guidebook, the walking booklet and the map of the whole Jebel el Kest region!

Here at last! The new bumper Select Guidebook to the Anti-Atlas..all the classic routes, and also including the best of the south side and the granite.. and plenty of new crags to explore not yet seen in print!! We'll keep you posted on tourism access this winter.. meanwhile please visit www.moroccorock.com for all the purchase options! Maps and walking books also available 🥳

A little game to play until climbing resumes in Morocco...
And to test your Morocco Rock knowledge skills...although one red herring is actually in the supplement and not the guidebook!!
Who will complete it first???

Another awesome line added to Titan's Wall by Ed Teale and Harry Lewis..a stonking 3 pitch E5, 6a,6a,5c (first pitch climbed by Dai Lampard and Bob Brewer when attempting a line to the right..) - demonstrating there are still plenty of unclimbed challenges to go for out in the Anti-Atlas!

More fabulous new routes put up at Tifghelt Col-Tizi Escarpment