22/07/2024
SHORT WALK (WITH AN EASY SCRAMBLE): GREAT WANNEY CRAG :4KM/ 21/2 MILES . 133 M ASCENT
INTRODUCTION: FEEL FREE TO SKIP THIS BIT, ITS JUST ME RAMBLING ON!
‘I’m never doing this again’ my companion grunted.
‘That’s what you said the last time ‘ I replied ,a little breathless.
We were carrying our mountain bikes up the not quite vertical face of Great Wanney Crag, in order to ride over the iron age parapets and down the undulating muddy path to Sweethope. It seemed like a good idea at the time. But it wasn’t. For one thing there is no cycling access around the crag. And for another, by the time we got to the top we were in no state to pedal.
I’ve caused a bit of consternation over the years by claiming this route is just a walk, when really it is more of a scramble with a bit of hands on rock stuff.I dragged both sons’ partners up here early on in their getting- to- know- the family, and I think it seemed like some kind of test they had to endure. But I think they agreed that , at the top , its pretty amazing.
You can actually visit the top of Great Wanney Crag without the climb, using the footpath across the road from Sweethope Lough, but obviously this is nowhere near as rewarding , and many of those who regularly use this path seem to have misread the footpath sign as saying dog toilet.
Great Wanney Crag is made of sandstone, formed l by deposits settling in the beds of ancient rivers. It is therefore very different from the dolerite which forms many big outcrops west of the village and is a harder volcanic rock. The Crag is much revered by climbers , who have enjoyed it for well over a century. The Trevelyans from Wallington were up and down it in the 1890s. Currently there are what seems an amazing 105 described climbing routes, all with names , many of which are rather splendid (‘Idiots Delight’ , ‘Hey up me duck’, and (of course)’Stairway to Heaven’).
START
Yes I have walked all the way there but it makes for a long trip, so it’s the car, but it doesn’t take long. Up the 696 to the Knowesgate, turn left , follow the winding road for 3km/2 miles or so . You reach the junction where the road bears sharp right and a narrow road on the left leads to Sweethope. Keep on the right. You’ve got another 2km/1 mile or so. The road undulates,bends left, climbs and then drops. Soon the private access road for the Ray Estate appears on the right, and shortly after the gated North entrance to Fourlaws forest comes up on the left. Park at this gate, or use the layby nearer the estate access road.
FOREST TRACK TO CRAG BASE
Use the dog friendly stile by the gate to join the forest track. Follow it for about 1.8 km/1 mile. It bears right, then left, and finally theres a sort of junction where the main track bends sharp right and a bit of fading track, soon degenerating to a path carries straight on. This isn’t signposted -its not a public footpath , just a tread over access land.You are now facing the crag across an open area of the stumps of old felled trees, heather and boggy ground. Follow this trodden path towards the crag.
Long ago, when I first came here this was a path through well grown pines, and emerging from the trees to the open boggy land with a backdrop of towering rock and at that time , a herd of spectacularly horned highland cattle, the place seemed like another world.
Its still pretty impressive. The path is not well marked but easy to follow. You cross a small stream, gurgling deep in the peaty ground and easily stepped over and gradually bear a bit left as you approach the escarpment. Now look carefully at the crags ahead. At more or less the highest point, the top of the rocks displays a bit of wooden fence and a couple of isolated trees. Looking along the crag top in front of you these two trees are the furthest to the left.The marks the left side of a break or notch in the rocky face .That break is a sort of upside down green ( in winter getting more brown) ‘V’ shape where vegetation largely replaces rock.The hardcore , more scrambly way up the crag is in that V. You wont see it until you’re on it though. Looking a bit to the right , you’ll see another notch. This marks the route the public footpath takes, which is just about walkable.
The path heads towards a collection of impressive boulders ( as in big enough to climb on) close to the foot of the crag, and then swings right to follow along the foot of the crag. Its often wet here, as in up to ankle deep but not awful, even after rain in February
UP AND OVER – Harder route
What is awful is the first bit of climbing. The lowest slopes of the crag are really a pile of boulders, the biggest clearly visible , the smallest lurking in the bracken.Feet have a tendency to twist into the holes between the rocks, and this first bit is where you really have to go slow.
Now , starting off: there are probably a lot of options, but over the years I’ve sort of settled on one route. Try and remember that green channel up the rocks with the bit of fence at the top. As you walk away from the big boulders, before you are level with the target channel there are two big rocks. Turn up left after you pass the first one and climb around so youre above the second one. That’s the worst bit over.Now you traverse the slope so you’re at the foot of the green gully, moving away from those big boulders at the bottom.
Now its time to go up up up. There is a faint winding path to start with with little sort of serpentines across that V of vegetation. As you near the top it becomes more a sort of rocky staircase. You will see the bit of wooden fence over to your left beyond a hefty slab of rock bridging a cleft. Gan canny here , it feels a bit exposed though I’ve never felt it too bad , even carrying a bike. The fence is low enough to step over.
UP AND OVER-Less hard route
Now instead of climbing up after the first rock you keep on the wet trodden path at the base of the crag. The next v shaped notch in the rock face soon comes up on your left. Above you is a little collection of trees on a sort of shoulder below the crag. Follow the path to the far side of the notch?gully then bear left through the bracken to skirt above this shoulder. You should see a pretty well trodden path, rising steeply above the shoulder and then really just heading straight for the head of the notch with just a little curving from side to side. You can just about walk up this , and the firmly rooted heather provides helpful handholds.
Emerging at the top you will see a post with footpath sign, pointing you slightly left. Soon you see another post, pointing you away from the cliff face.Following the footpath takes you well away from the best views, so when you see a barbed wire fence ahead on your left, turn to your left and walk back towards the crag face with that fence on your right. You will end up at the top of the harder climb. With a few meters of wooden fence visible beyond a rock slab bridging a cleft. You climb the rock carefully, cross the slab and step over the fence.
AT THE TOP
Well you’re going to pause anyway because you’ll be knackered, but pause in any case because this view is pretty special. Away to your left are the heather clad slopes of Hepple Heugh, the local highest point.Far ahead the ground rises to Hartside Cairn,with its memorial to Queen Victoria, also at a height of 336 m. In between these,the controversial planned Elizabeth Monument will also match that height, though all three of these tall places will be dwarfed by turbines of ray Wind Farm. In truth the whole landscape is a human creation, worked on for centuries,with forestry, roads , railway, dams,mining, quarrying, and pesky hikers!. Walk along the trodden path with the crag face on your left for more human interference, this time a large ditch encircled hillfort.This is pretty spectacular, with the semicircular rampart butting up to the cliff face.
COMING DOWN
Follow the well trodden path parallel to the cliff edge-its safely set back. Its useful to look down to get your bearings for the return. You should be able to see the big boulders at the foot of the crag , the ones you originally walked towards.Behind them you should see a stone wall , more or less perpendicular to the crag . Beyond that there is a conifer plantation, then a gap , then a second plantation. These plantations are linked by a fence with a full height gate in . You will go through the gate . But not yet. Follow the path through the heather, gradually descending from the hill fort. You are looking for a footpath signpost on the path coming up from Sweethope Lough. We renewed this in February, so hopefully its still standing.
Reaching the post turn sharp left. The rocky slope down here is pretty shallow. Following a trodden path in a cleft down the slope you are soon down to the flat wet ground. Look for that gate between the plantations. The ground is boggy but the trodden path helpfully curves over the firmer bits. Through the gate you follow the signposted public footpath over rough grassland, into the spruce trees . You will follow this path along a rushy but dry ridge to reach the main access road and then turn right to return to the start.
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