Iffley Bouldering Wall

We FINALLY have a limited number of copies of the elusive 10th Edition Iffley guidebook available for sale...

These things sold like hot cakes last time, so grab one quick if you don't have your own copy :)

https://www.oxfordalpineclub.uk/shop.php #!/Iffley-10-The-Iffley-Bouldering-Guide/p/59136024/category=10367386

A few new problems, including the first ever problem to make use of hold 22B and the first ever (but not yet climbed) problem to use 91A!

GL;HF, B2 5c, (17 44) 64 97

Set by + FA: Jamie Bickers

Looks harder than it is.

Meh..., 4c, (15C 42) Girder

Set by + FA: Jamie Bickers

One move wonder, if you cannot get the foot up it's basically impossible.

Tighty Whity, 5c?, 6 23B 25 73B 105

Only the second ever problem to use 23B. A fairly brutal sit start.

Set by: Geroge Vere, FA: N/A

??? (unnamed), ???, using any holds, finish by matching 91A.

Not entirely sure if this is even possible, but if this cannot be done the hold seems fairly pointless.

Set by: Jamie Bickers + Geroge Vere, FA: N/A

Come Fly with Me, 5a, (4 66) 70B 22B Girder

Big dyno from some fairly directional holds in the wrong directions.

Set by: Jamie Bickers + Geroge Vere, FA: Jamie Bickers

Little Hooves, 5a, (2 18) 17 46 20 48 50 23 73B 26 52 (match)

A low level traverse with an awkward move across 48.

Set by + FA: Freya Way and Aoife Sweeney

More new problems with a variety of setters, including a new hard problem.

Lucy in the Sky, 6a-, 4 20 45 47B Girder

Yes, this actually goes.

Set by + FA: Roman.

Code Black, 5b+, 9 10 32 82A 53B 8 51 24 50 Girder 23A 107A 110 112

A long problem with no hard moves, finishes very close to the start but you must travel far to get there.

Set by + FA: Jamie Bickers

Dedeviled, 5b, 3 16 46 62 40A 95C

A new sit start.

Set by + FA: Jamie Bickers and Steve Broadbent

Baby Ibex, 4a+, 4B 19B 46 17 18 63 98

Gentle climbing until the last move.

Set by + FA: Aoife Sweeney, Freya Way, Alice Epps

Problems from the Iffley Comp, some of the grades may be very innacurate. Named by the competitors.

Set by Alex, Jola, Barbora, George, and Jamie.

Make 4a Great Again, 4a, (14 40 42) 15 60 Girder

Rocky Island, 4b, Arete 1 14 15A 40 41A 43 Girder

Theresa's Mayday, 4c, 2 16 42 96

Salty Slug, 4a, (3 46) 17 63 16 42 61B

"4b", 4b, 5 20 21 48A 67B 69 101

A Short Persons Stretch, 4c, (17 44A 46) 20 67A 48A 102B 103B

The Yonic Way, 4a, 7 26 28 51 77 108

Mulled Girder, 4b, 7 28 77B 29A 80 55 81

Playing the Harp, 4c, (29 54) 78 28 51 107A

Dandelion & Burdock, 4a, (11 36 59 58) 86 85 34 32 57 113 112

Jamie's Date, 4b, 11 38B 38C 37 58 34 87 85 32 113B

Craggy Island, 4c, 9 32 55 84 113

The Yankees are Coming, 5a, 16 17 46 63 Girder

EUMC, 5b, (39B 12) 13 40A 41A 95B

Neeps & Tatties, 5a, (20 48A) 46 64 18 99

Harsh but not Unreasonable, 5b, 5 6 23 22 50 Girder

All Bar One, 5a, 8 28 53 80 56 81 111A

Jody's Folly, 5b, 10 32 30 55 29A 54 28 78B 51 76B Girder

Sherpas an Arnow, 5a, 10 34 35 57 86 36 89 91A

Left Leg you Bloody Idiots, 5b, (Arete 11 58B) 38 116B

Benightment Bathroom, 5c, 2 16 17 44A 45 64B 65 97

Slide Pull, 5c, 4 20 5 47B 45 67B 103A

Stand and Deliver, 5c, (24 52 7) 53A 53B 8 82A 81 30 110

Portland Cement, 5c, (11 34 59 58) 86B 86C 32 84B 85B 113A

First recorded (as far as I know) speed run of the Welcome Circuit.

28.7s by Jamie Bickers

A few worthwhile variants and eliminates on problems I've collected.

Snappy Fun Ball, B2 5b+, 4B 19B 48B 66 69 99A

This small change in the final hold (from 99B to 99A) makes the last move either extremely lanky or terrifyingly dynamic. I've checked it is possible by grabbing the last hold, though I've not actually managed to hold on yet.

Set by: Jamie Bickers, FA: N/A

Exclusions of Grandure, 5a+, 17 18 44B 97B

If you are tall this actually feels easier than the standard problem.

Set by: Sam Johansen, FA: Jamie Bickers

Curved Sibling, 4b, (85 32) 81 30 29B 80 77B 7

This is simply Twisted Sister but backwards, and is climbed in the same style. Suprisingly it does not feel contrived and has it's own set of challenges.

Set by: Jamie Bickers, Ivan, Dan Wilcox, George Vere, FA: Jamie Bickers

Swiss Girl, 5b+, 8 28 79A 55 110, Tall

Eliminating 82A makes the final move either a desparate reach or a hideous dyno.

Set by: Jamie Bickers, FA: Jamie Bickers

A new hard problem has been set.

Equality, 6a, (24 51) 75A 109B (no chips)

An awkward step up onto 51 leads to a move right where staying balanced is very tricky.

Set by: Nadav, FA: Nadav

More new problems:

Quadriplegic, B2 5b
(85) Girder (no chips)

This problem has a few rules - no chips, to finish you must get both feet on the girder, and the girder is feet only. Falling may put you in hospital and is not advised.

Gets an ambulance symbol.

Set by: Jamie Bickers + Chris Arran, FA: Jamie Bickers

Vegetable and Falanfel Wraps, B2 5b
Arete 11 36 59 35 85 115 117

The name is not a spelling error. This describes a certain event that occured in OUMC in 2018 involving a certain committee member.

Set by: Jamie Bickers, FA: Jamie Bickers

Crowded, 5c
30 55 85 Girder 92

Not one to do when it's ...

Gets an ambulance symbol.

Set by: Dan Wilcox + Jamie Bickers, FA: Jamie Bickers

M # # # # # , 5c
4 19 68 22 101B

An eliminate on MiniPint with only one success so far.

Gets a tall symbol.

Set by: Luke Mclaughlin, FA: Luke Mclaughlin

Now a couple of Ali G inspired problems:

IndaHouse, 5b
32 55 81 110

If you don't find the beta your shoulder might dislocate.

Set by: Jamie Bickers, FA: Jamie Bickers

Ali G on Co***ne (working name), ??? (at least 5c+, probably B3 6a)
30 55 83 112

Set by: Jamie Bickers, FA: N/A

First new 'Hard Iffley' problem in a while, posted earlier but now has been upgraded after receiving a first ascent.

Awkward and Strong B4 6b
(6 50) 68 47B 104A

I'm justifying the massive grade increase (from 5c+) due to a) the amount of time it took to project, and b) it playing to my strengths (by design). It requires flexibility, comrpession strength, the willingness to deadpoint off a small shiny sloper with awkward feet, and two hard moves next to each other with no rest.

The B4 grade is due to it being fairly short.

The new freshers circuit. A bunch of easy (3x) problems designed for novice climbers.

Epic Saturday session with Iffley's newest hot-shot ;) Tried out stacks of new problems, had hilarity on Gunther, spent a fun hour working uber classic Palm Beach, and warmed down with a tiring 33-minute run round the Mountain Circuit... beer and nuts in the Fir Tree... this is what Iffley's all about!!!