Vertigo Outdoor

For those using lanyards...one to look out for! Check and check again!

Taghia new route

Route name: Hanna
Grade: 6a+, 6b (6c Variant), 6a+
Length: 100m
Style: Sport climbing, fully bolted with 3 Rappel Stations.
Equipment: 14 QD, 70M Rope.
FA: May 2022. T Davies, R Davies

Approach
The route is located on the right side of the deep gorge located behind the mountain of Taoujdad.
From the village of Taghia, head towards the obvious gorge. Following the river and crossing to the right past a small hamlet and campsite you will pass under the large face on the left with the route “Fat Guide” and a wooden platform at 20M used by the locals for adventure days. Head uphill into the right-hand side gorge. The route is approximately 250M up the gorge on the RHS. A second route was added by our team 100M further up on the left hand side (Slim Shady 7b+)

Descent: Abseil to the left of the main route using 3 rappel Station 35m, 30m, 25m

Additional Info:
The route and the canyon in general are in the shade most of the day. The route has sun from 11-2. The canyon is a great place to find shade when other walls in the area are basking in the sun.

The route was bolted ground up and is fully equipped. The route is bolted extremely well so even those who find 6A+ at the top of their ability will be able to enjoy the route. (6a+ Obligatory).
The middle pitch can be taken on the right at 6C or on the left at 6B.
Caution should be taken with the large block embedded on the ledge at the top of Pitch 1 and a Block just above pitch 3 that can be avoided by following the bolts and moving left.

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Thinking of buying an Ice Axe? Have some folk mentioned a T or B rating and whether or not this is important?

Many people have heard of a T rated or B rated shaft and pick but what actually is it and how important is that my axe is either T or B rated?

So here it is in a nutshell (though a bit nerdy, but we like a bit of techy stuff...).

EN 13089:2015 and UIAA 152

Tools that receive a 'T' rating have to pass 4 physical tests:
1) 0.9 kn pull at 90° to the shaft of the tool,
2) 3.5 kn pull at 90° on the center of the shaft,
3) 4 kn pull at 90° on the head of the tool
4) A 182 N Pick Deflection Test. (Max deflection =70mm)

Tools that receive a 'B' rating have to pass 4 physical tests:
1) 0.6 kn pull at 90° to the shaft of the tool,
2) 2.5 kn pull at 90° on the center of the shaft,
3) 2.5 kn pull at 90° on the head of the tool
4) A 127 N Pick Deflection Test. (Max deflection = 70mm)

So basically a B rated shaft can handle ~250kg and a T rated shaft can handle ~350kg when used in a buried axe belay.

The Snow would probably give first...

How about this for an amazing climber focused workout. These guys are the real deal!

CLIMBER ORIENTATED RESISTANCE EXERCISES. Strengthen your CORE FAST. C limber. O rientated. R esistance. E xercises. Following our live class, we have uploaded the footage for you to follow in your own time if you missed the C...

A few pictures from this weeks BOS Mountain Leader Assessment. Harsh weather and some access issues made for a difficult assessment but it resulted in 5 new Mountain Leaders. Well done all those involved.

Mountain Leader assessment 2020 16 new photos added to shared album

As we approach Spring here is a short instructional video we did with Jane Carney, Training Officer with Mountaineering Ireland.

Scrambling Ropework HD