Iran National Climbing Team

مسابقات بلدرینگ فصلی جام فدک (تهران)
60 مسیر به صورت امتیازی
ویژه مبتدیان و حرفه ای ها
اطلاعات بیشتر درج شده در پوستر ها

به گزارش روابط عمومی فدراسیون؛ به اطلاع جامعه‌ی ارجمند کوه‌نوردی و صعودهای ورزشی می‌رساند، علاوه بر مکاتبات عمومی و پیگیری‌ها از طریق پست الکترونیکی فدراسیون به آدرس: [email protected] ، به منظور تسهیل در برقراری ارتباط بی‌واسطه و فراگیر با شخص رئیس فدراسیون، می‌توانید از طریق رایانامه اختصاصی به آدرس: [email protected] با وی مکاتبه کنید.

msfi.ir

ایران، میزبان مسابقات سنگ‌نوردی قهرمانی آسیا در سال ۲۰۱۳

به گزارش کارگروه روابط بین‌الملل فدراسیون: در جریان برگزاری مجمع فدراسیون سنگ‌نوردی آسیا که در شانگ های چین برگزار شد، «ایران» با اتفاق آراء، رسماً به عنوان میزبان رقابت‌های سنگ‌نوردی بزرگسالان قهرمانی آسیا درسال ۲۰۱۳ برگزیده شد.

زمان دقیق برگزاری این مسابقات در سال ۹۲ ، پس از هماهنگی‌های لازم متعاقباً اعلام خواهد شد.

Campus and Dead Hang the quickest way to improve

The most productive way for fast progress is to start your training session with 20 minutes of finger training on a campus board.

After the warming up, spend 10 minutes doing some campus moves, i.e. no feet, on flat rungs. This will increase and recruit your muscle fibers and you will get stronger directly. Then spend 10 minutes hanging on a small rail for 10 seconds every minute. If you feel you get tired, increase the rest to two minutes.

If you have never done it, you will climb one grade harder within 1-2 months but make sure to not push yourself to hard and you should alternate the holds. During your climbing make sure you do not get to pumped. If so, climb half the route twice instead of to the top.

Body power is not important to train

Which strengths separates the 9a guy from the 8a and 7a climber? Having been a trainer for 20 years I would say that most climber would immediately improve 2-3 grades if they had the the commitment and fearlessness of a 9a climber. Unfortunately this skill is very hard to improve unless you are a teenager.

All other skills in climbing are much easier to improve but which skills are less important and thus is basically a waste of time to train, if you can just spend five hours every week?

Body Power excercises makes you look nice at the beach but it will not make the difference doing the first 7b. There are several 7a climbers who have more body strength than an 8a climber. Other training you could avoid is running and for males also arm power if you just have five hours per week to spend.

The weakest link in climbing for intermediate climbers is always the finger strength. If you get stronger you automatically get better endurance. Do not think that there are short cuts to gain in the gym!

Adam Ondra training interview :

What are the reasons for your successful trip? Have you done any special training?
I took one week off after failure in December. Then I trained a lot of power on campus board, bouldered and power endurance with a focus on proper recovery like going to the sauna and stretching. Easy If I don't have to go to school.

I focused on quality rather than on quantity as in the last years. Doing three or four routes per training sessions on my limit with longer rests in between proved to be so much more efficient than climbing ten routes of lower level. It doesn't almost feel like training, I go home still fresh, but it works.

In the past, when I was training, I wanted to go back home completely crushed, but it is not the way, especially right before your trip to take down your project. The reason I finally sent La Dura dura and the others could be that I am
now just a tiny bit stronger enough for being able to take down the projects that seemed close last year.

How many hours of climbing and complementary training every week and how is it structured?
You could call it an experiment with semi-structured training. I mainly train alone but most of the time together with a good crew in the gym. 15 h a week I climb and 3 h something different like running, stretching and compensation training on mat (based a little on yoga).

What are your strength and weaknesses?
My strength are motivation, passion, technique. I am weak in terms of pure power but I have been working on it for three years now. And that helped me to progress. And I am still hoping it will help in future to reach new horizons in climbing. (c) Alvaro Susena - Flexibility could be added to his strength

فدراسیون با صدور بخش نامه ای به هیئت های سراسر کشور اعلام کرد؛ پیرو بخشنامه شماره ۴۱۶۱/۲۶۳ مورخ ۱۱ دی ماه ۹۱ ، مبنی بر برگزاری سیزدهمین دوره مسابقات سنگ‌نوردی جام فجر و انتخابی تیم ملی، در اوایل اسفندماه سال جاری، به اطلاع می‌رساند این مسابقات در نیمه دوم فروردین ماه سال ۱۳۹۲ برگزار خواهد شد.

مقتضی است کلیه هیئت‌های استان مراتب را در سطح استان به‌طور کامل اطلاع‌رسانی نمایند.

بدیهی است اطلاعات تکمیلی متعاقباً اعلام خواهد شد.

Climbing reports that Patrick Edlinger, who was one of the sport climbing pioneers doing 8c already in the late 80s and who won many international comps, has died at a age of 52 ( GoD BLESS HIM) :(