Part-time climber. Part-time photographer. Full-time psyched.
Context for Nerds🥸⬇️
This is exactly how it happens. I don't make the rules.
Context for Nerds🥸⬇️
Influencers are lying to you about the efficacy of exercises. If you want to strengthen, grow, or develop power in your quads (for example) then figure out the simplest, most progressively loadable way to extend your knees.
Barbell Squat, Split Squat, Leg Press, Leg Extension, it doesn't matter. Half of my climbing clients that gain access to a commercial gym with machines while traveling, or as a recommendation from a physio during rehab (most common cases) will go on to do the vast majority of their training using machines out of time-efficiency.
I am making a strong argument for climbing gyms to invest in more machines, specifically for leg strengthening (where I think the most value is gained).
If you still don't know where to start, let's talk about it!
Context for Nerds 🥸⬇️
Functional overreaching (FOR) is a continued challenge to a physical quality, with strength being one of the most simple examples to visualize. Slowly adding load and force produced, number go up.
Non-Functional Overreaching (NFOR) is the stagnation that occurs when OR extends beyond the functional realm and is never given an opportunity to return to a functional threshold.
The two most common overreaching variables are Intensity and Volume, and with chronic NFOR, often a lowering of both can be required in order to return to a recoverable baseline.
If your volumes are sufficiently low (Minimum Effective Dosage, probably nearer physical activity activity guidelines), then you can get away with extending one or the other without much of a problem. It's a flexible position to be in and why it's recommended as a starting point for athletes and gen pop alike (especially for strength work), both for great results and as a learning point to explore other variables.
Maintaining high intensity in a low volume environment is relatively sustainable, but as soon as high volume or frequency are involved, athletes often are necessarily required to temper high intensity as a response.
This can be really difficult for athletes to reconcile in practice, especially when they're used to focusing on one form of training or the other.
A well-rounded athlete understands these shifts and is able to navigate them instead of hyper-focusing on one or both until they inevitably burnout.
If you still don't know where to start, let's talk about it!
We're very in love, infatuated even
Progress could be quite a bit faster but the allure of testing limits is ever present (it's me, I'm the problem it's me)
Maybe volume management was the injury prevention all along 🤔