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Diagnosing and Treating SplintsPart of your pre-ride routine involves running a hand down each of your horse’s legs—it’s...
09/18/2026

Diagnosing and Treating Splints

Part of your pre-ride routine involves running a hand down each of your horse’s legs—it’s something you do almost automatically. But this time you come across a large, rigid bump on the inside of his front cannon bone. What could it be? It is likely a “popped” splint. Popped splints, or exostosis (a bony growth) of the metacarpal or metatarsal (splint) bones, are a common finding in horses. Usually, these are old and “quiet,” meaning they cause no pain or lameness, but others are hot and active, causing pain and sometimes lameness.

The metacarpal and metatarsal bones are the small bones on each side of the cannon bone that extend from the carpus (knee) to just above the fetlock. The strong ligament between these bones and the cannon bone is the interosseous ligament, which hardens to bone as the horse ages. The splint bones are the remnants of prehistoric toes and the anatomic equivalents of your index and ring fingers.

Horses develop or “pop” splints for a number of reasons, including direct trauma, repeated concussion from work, poor conformation, and poor hoof balance. Splints commonly arise in young horses early in their training, but they can also occur in older horses. Front limbs and medial, or inside, splint bones are more commonly affected than hind limbs and/or lateral (outer) splint bones. Veterinarians divide splints into two groups: a fracture of the splint bone and the more common popped splint. They primarily use palpation and radiographs (X rays) to diagnose and monitor fractured or popped splints.

Popped splints
The more common popped splint often presents as a fast-developing warm, firm swelling on the side of the cannon bone. Lameness could be present, depending on the degree of inflammation, but, again, splints can develop with no signs of pain or lameness. The underlying pathology is tearing of the periosteum (the fibrous outer layer of the splint bone) or the interosseous ligament, which results in inflammation and new bone formation—the splint bump. Quiet splints can appear seemingly overnight with no heat, swelling, or lameness and generally require little treatment or rest.

Fractured splints
Direct trauma is the most common cause of a fractured splint bone. The location dictates the treatment plan and prognosis. Fracture of the lower part of the splint can be difficult to treat without surgery. Often the fragment moves so much that a normal stabilizing callus cannot form properly, so the fracture might not heal. If such a callus does not form after a few weeks or if the suspensory ligament branch (which inserts into the sesamoid bones at the bottom end of the cannon to hold them in place) is involved, your veterinarian might suggest removing the lower part of the splint bone surgically. Once removed, most cases have few problems going forward. Higher fractures of the splint bone, toward the knee, are more complicated. Surgeons prefer not to remove the bone closer to the carpus joint due to resulting joint instability. In some cases, they might elect to place a stabilizing plate and screws in the limb rather than remove the bone entirely. Fractures occurring in the middle of the splint bone are usually uncomplicated and resolve with several weeks of rest to allow the fracture to heal.

Managing splints
Most cases respond very well to conservative treatment. It’s important that your veterinarian take radiographs to determine whether the bone is fractured. Treatment typically includes rest, cryotherapy (ice/cold hosing), and supportive wraps. Your veterinarian might recommend topical treatment with anti-inflammatory products, such as Surpass (diclofenac sodium), or applying a sweat wrap to the leg to reduce inflammation and swelling. He or she might also recommend oral anti-inflammatory drugs, such as phenylbutazone (Bute) or flunixin meglumine (Banamine). Usually, within a few weeks the splint is no longer warm and does not react to palpation.

Some splints do not respond to typical treatment. These remain inflamed and sore, and the new bone formation can become quite large. Your veterinarian might recommend injecting the splint area with corticosteroids or other drugs that reduce the local inflammation. These chronic splints become problematic when the bone callus becomes so large it impinges on tendons or the suspensory ligament. If the new bone callus becomes large enough to damage these soft tissue structures, surgery is often required to shave down or remove the callus.

Splint bone injuries are common in both working and pastured horses. You can manage most splints easily with help from your veterinarian, minimal downtime from exercise, and medical therapy. Occasionally, your horse might require surgery or more aggressive medical treatment. Quickly involving your veterinarian in the diagnosis and monitoring of splint bone injuries helps ensure the most rapid recovery with fewest complications.

The Horse

Caring for Minis, Donkeys, and MulesMiniature Horses, donkeys, and mules might resemble horses—but they don’t eat, think...
09/16/2026

Caring for Minis, Donkeys, and Mules

Miniature Horses, donkeys, and mules might resemble horses—but they don’t eat, think, or thrive like them. Managing these equids means thinking differently compared to having horses. From nutrition and metabolism to behavior and handling, they need care that fits their unique biology.

A Look at Miniature Horses
Miniature Horses (Minis) are the smallest horse breed in the world. The American Miniature Horse Association sets the maximum height for Minis at 34 inches, measured at the base of the last mane hairs, and adult Minis typically weigh 150 to 250 pounds.

Feeding and Nutrition for Miniature Horses
Ashley Fowler, MS, PhD, director of research at Kentucky Equine Research, in Versailles, says “Miniature Horses love to eat; therefore, it is easy for owners to overfeed (them), especially if they are used to feeding full-size horses.”

Minis should maintain an ideal body condition of 5 on the Henneke Body Condition Scoring system. Most Mini owners either overestimate or underestimate their Mini’s body weight, says Fowler. “I usually eyeball their weights,” she says. Because weight tapes can be unreliable and barns don’t commonly have scales, she recommends a useful calculation for body weight based on body length and girth measurement:
Estimated body weight (lbs) = (9.36 x girth measurement in inches) + (5 x body length in inches) – 348.5.

“There has been very little research done on Miniature Horses,” Fowler continues. “Therefore, the feeding recommendations are based on the standards for other equine, balanced with experience in working with Minis. Ideally, Minis should consume 1.5 to 2.0% of their body weight in forage daily.” If a Mini weighs 200 pounds, that would translate to 3.0 pounds of hay per day. Just like their larger relatives, working and lactating Minis have higher nutritional demands and need to consume as much as 3% of their body weight in forage daily.

Because of the small amount of hay recommended for Minis, Fowler strongly suggests weighing hay to ensure you are not over- or underfeeding your Mini, emphasizing that each horse should be fed as an individual based on his specific needs.

Feeding and Obesity
In terms of mineral, vitamin, and protein requirements for Minis, Fowler says, “They are the same as large-breed horses, just adjusted for differences in body weight. A vitamin-mineral supplement or ration balancer can be offered that will not interfere with caloric content.” In addition, she says Minis have the propensity to become obese. They should not have free access to graze lush pasture grasses or be fed hays high in nonstructural carbohydrates (NSC).

Obesity increases the risk of your Mini’s susceptibility to a syndrome called hyperlipemia (elevated fat concentration in the plasma). Fowler says this condition happens when fat stores are quickly broken down. “It occurs when animals go into an energy deficit and mobilize fat,” she explains. “This can be triggered by lowered feed intake, stress, and disease. Hyperlipemia can be deadly due to the massive amounts of lipids (fats) being released from fat storage sites that can cause dysfunction of major organs if not swiftly caught and treated by a veterinarian.”

Fowler suggests the best way to prevent obesity in Minis is to avoid oversupplying them with excess energy and causing excessive weight gain. Shannon Pratt Phillips, PhD, PAS, professor in the Department of Animal Science at North Carolina State University, in Raleigh, agrees and adds, “It is easier to keep lean than to have a fat animal to lose weight, so keep them lean in the first place. Exercise will not only keep weight off but can off set any metabolic issues like insulin dysregulation.”

Training and Behavior
Minis are known for their eager-to-please personalities. The AMHA says Minis are versatile and excel in various disciplines, including halter, jumping in-hand, hunter in-hand, obstacles, and driving. However, don’t be fooled by their small stature. They are not a big dog but every inch a real horse and should be treated that way. A badly behaved Mini can be as dangerous as a full-sized horse. Although it might seem like an easy option, do not to manhandle Minis as it might make them more difficult to handle. Train them as you would a big horse—teaching them all the fundamentals so they will lead, stand, tie, and pick up all four feet.

Miniature Horse Hoof Considerations
Mark Hirschler, an AFA-certified, 30-year practicing farrier in Charleston, South Carolina, says Minis’ hooves tend to be harder in comparison to standard horses, therefore they hold up better. “I don’t shoe Minis. I recommend (hoof) boots if someone really needs them,” he adds.

Understanding Donkeys
Nutritionally, donkeys differ greatly from horses; they’re highly efficient at digesting poor-quality fiber. As Erin Goodrich, DVM, Dipl. ACVPM (preventive medicine), associate professor of practice and director of veterinary support services at Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, in Ithaca, New York, says, “Donkeys are highly desert-adapted equids, and that has shaped their nutritional needs.”

Feeding and Nutrition
In the wild, donkeys typically walk long distances for much of the day while foraging primarily on low-energy plants. “Donkeys are able to digest higher-fiber forages, what we would typically consider poor nutritional fiber, than horses,” says Goodrich. “They have a slower gastrointestinal transit time, which allows for increased digestion and absorption.”

Fowler agrees, adding, “They have a greater activity of fiber-digesting bacteria in their hindgut.”

That said, “under most conditions donkeys thrive on a very fibrous grass hay low in NSCs or even barley or wheat straw,” says Goodrich. “They have evolved to be both browsers and grazers, utilizing shrubs and trees as food when grass is not available.”

Sometimes donkey owners or barn managers add straw as a forage source. In these cases Fowler recommends donkeys consume up to 25% of their forage intake in clean straw. Straw helps dilute the energy content of the diet while allowing them to eat enough dry matter. Donkeys need to consume less energy per day than horses, when adjusted for body weight, so they should consume less feed.

Under most conditions donkeys thrive on a very fibrous grass hay. They have evolved to be both browsersand grazers, utilizing shrubs and trees as food when grass is not available.
Dr. Erin Goodrich

“A good average is 1.5% of their body weight in dry forage per day,” Fowler says. Don’t feed improved pasture like you might feed horses; rather, offer forage with a low energy value so donkeys can eat enough to satisfy their appetite but not become obese.

“Grazing donkeys on pasture often proves too risky as most pastures are too high in nutritional value to be safe for donkeys,” Goodrich says. “If donkeys are to be allowed on pasture, it is important that the grasses are allowed to mature and go to seed so that the nutritional value is low … then (allow) donkeys access to only small amounts at a time, such as with strip grazing.”

Donkeys have a different body shape than horses, says Fowler, and owners should use a donkey-specific body condition score scale to maintain ideal condition. (The Donkey Sanctuary’s ideal body condition score is 3). An adult donkey’s weight ranges from 220 to 1,100 pounds, depending upon breed and age. Fowler suggests using a weight tape specifically designed for donkeys, or The Donkey Sanctuary also has a chart available for estimating body weight based on height at the withers and heart girth (thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk).

“Donkeys have the unique ability to reabsorb urea that is filtered by their kidneys,” Goodrich says. This means they have a much lower crude protein requirement (3.8-7.4%) than that of a mature horse (8-12%). For this reason legumes such as alfalfa do not suit most mature donkeys not in heavy work.

Feeding and Obesity
Following a metabolic pattern similar to Minis, donkeys can easily become obese if you feed them like a horse, and that can result in many unfortunate secondary issues such as donkey metabolic syndrome and laminitis. “We need to try our best to mimic their natural environment—that means providing ample opportunity to exercise, while trickle feeding on highly fibrous low-energy forages,” says Goodrich. She also recommends providing them with opportunities to browse on safe trees and shrubs.

As with Minis, Goodrich recommends providing donkeys with an appropriate vitamin and mineral supplement or a low-calorie, low-protein ration balancer that does not promote weight gain.

Like their small equid relatives, overweight and obese donkeys are highly susceptible to hyperlipemia. “When managing your donkey’s weight, care should be taken not to crash diet as this will put your donkey at risk,” says Fowler. Promote gradual weight loss (no more than 11 pounds/month) by providing appropriate feeds that are low in energy (NSCs) but high in fiber.

Training and Behavior
Donkeys need a reason for everything they do. They might appear to be in deep thought, but their comprehension and memory retention is very acute. The Donkey Sanctuary reports that donkeys learn things that are closest to their natural behaviors such as bonding with other donkeys and rolling in the dirt (used for grooming and stress relief). They have a good sense of self-preservation and might be unwilling to do things they perceive as dangerous. Activities unnatural to donkeys include standing and picking up feet or moving away from pressure. Therefore, successfully training a donkey requires understanding what motivates them to learn and building on that motivation.

“When handling a donkey, you should always be alert because they are extremely agile,” Hirschler says.

Donkey Hoof Considerations
“Hoof angles on donkeys are generally more upright, and depending upon footing, the feet wear off more uniformly,” says Hirschler. In addition, he says their hoof walls are more dense, making their hooves hold up better to wear compared to horses. Hirschler notes that he sees more white line disease in donkeys than horses, but they do not always become lame from it.

Understanding the Long-Ear Hybrid: Mules
Mules are the hybrid offspring of a male donkey (jack) and female horse (mare). Mules often have the body type of a horse with the ears, mane, and tail of a donkey.

Feeding and Nutrition
“There is little to no nutritional information available for feeding mules,” says Fowler. “We often see that mules do best when fed more similarly to donkeys. Like donkeys, per body weight, mules have lower energy and protein needs in comparison to horses. However, even though mules are more efficient at digesting poor-quality fiber in comparison to horses of a similar weight and activity level, they are not as efficient as a donkey.”

Mule owners should provide forage at 1.5 to 2.0% of the individual’s body weight daily. Fowler notes that like Minis and donkeys, mules should consume low-NSC hay. Because mules gain weight quickly, again, maintaining an ideal body condition remains important. Fowler says to use a hybrid scale that combines the Henneke system (BCS of 5) with comparisons to the Donkey Scale (BCS of 3). She also recommends using a horse weight table or commercially available weight tape, keeping in mind that the weight tape underestimates a mule’s body weight.

Depending on the mule’s genetic background, the breed of the dam, and the type and amount of work he does, he might need additional calories if not maintaining body condition and weight on a forage-only diet. Fowler says if he needs additional energy, start by increasing the amount and quality of forage. Offer a more digestible fiber source, such as beet pulp, or a fat source, such as a vegetable oil or stabilized rice bran, to increase the energy needed for weight gain and improved body condition. “Concentrate feeds designed for horses should not be used for mules,” she says. “Feeding high-starch concentrates designed for horses may increase the risk of developing insulin dysregulation in these animals.”

Make sure to include a vitamin-mineral supplement or ration balancer to meet mules’ mineral and vitamin needs as well.

Feeding and Obesity
“The biggest risk in feeding mules, along with the other equids discussed, is oversupplying energy and causing weight gain and obesity,” says Fowler. She also stresses that mules, like Minis and donkeys, are prone to develop the same metabolic issues, so owners should follow the same preventive measures.

Training and Mule Behavior
Mules tend to take the nonflight behavior of the donkey, which has bearing on their training. They are more likely to stop and think when faced with an issue, say mule trainers. This makes them better problem solvers and quick learners compared to horses and less appreciative of repetition. Getting help from a trainer who knows mules will help give your mule a solid foundation of training and good handling.

Hoof Considerations for Mules
Hirschler, who has worked on mules for over 25 years, says, “Like donkeys, mules tend to have more upright angles and denser hoof walls.” He mentions that full-sized mules use shoes for carriage driving, going over rough terrain, and some for showing.

Take-Home Message
Minis, donkeys, and mules have distinct characteristics that separate them from horses. They are easy keepers with lower energy requirements. They are smart and in some cases need specialized training so they can be handled calmly and safely. It is best to work with a qualified equine nutritionist and trainer or behaviorist to help understand the needs of your unique equids.

How to Sweat a Horse’s LegFor decades the technique of “sweating a leg” has been a mainstay in conservative management o...
09/10/2026

How to Sweat a Horse’s Leg

For decades the technique of “sweating a leg” has been a mainstay in conservative management of equine leg injuries, as well as improving cosmetic appearance in certain situations. While topical medications and application techniques vary greatly, all sweats have three common ingredients:

1. A topical medication consisting of a base (traditionally nitrofurazone, or Fura-Zone, ointment) often mixed with various additives, most commonly an anti-inflammatory (a steroid such as dexamethasone or a non-steroidal anti-­inflammatory such as ­diclofenac), and dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) as a carrying agent.
2. Plastic wrap.
3. A firmly applied stable ­bandage.
The purpose of a sweat is to apply moist heat and compression to a structure to increase the tissue temperature, stimulate circulation, and aid in the removal of edema (fluid swelling). Edema occurs when the fluid that naturally leaks from blood vessels is not effectively carried away by the lymphatic system, due to poor circulation or conditions in which excess fluid leakage overcomes normal lymphatic return capacity. The nitrofurazone (or other base ingredient) creates a moist environment, while the DMSO stimulates blood flow and helps carry any other medications in the mixture into the tissues. Saran or other plastic wrap helps keep the area moist and warm, while the stable bandage helps further retain heat and compresses the swollen tissues to help the lymphatic system clear up excess extracellular fluid.

Sweating is best used once the acute stage of inflammation has resolved, since you do not want to add further heat to freshly damaged tissue. Ice and cooling clay poultices are more appropriate choices in those initial stages. Once things have settled down and healing has begun, you can use a sweat to reduce edema, encourage circulation, and aid absorption of topical medication. Ask your veterinarian when it’s appropriate to start sweating—usually when there’s no obvious heat in the affected limb.

Sweats are also useful for managing old injuries that have resulted in stiffened tissues, such as an old suspensory ligament injury with scarring or the thickened capsule of an arthritic joint. Keeping those areas warm and supple can prevent repeat injury and help a horse feel more comfortable, particularly at the start of exercise when core and tissue temperatures are still below optimal for maximum function and flexibility.

In cases when an area is not easy to bandage, you can replace the plastic wrap and stable bandage with a neoprene boot shaped to fit the area being sweated, such as a hock or knee. Neoprene wraps are also used to sweat and reduce the throatlatch area in conformation horses to give it a cleaner appearance. When using neoprene we typically skip the DMSO because it can create excess heat to the point of skin irritation. If DMSO is an ingredient in your sweat, be sure the leg is completely dry before application because when DMSO mixes with water, a significant exothermic (heat-releasing) reaction can occur to the detriment of skin health. Also avoid using DMSO on scrapes or skin injuries.

Some horses with very sensitive skin, particularly nonpigmented limbs, can be sweated effectively with just a little rubbing alcohol, plastic wrap, and a bandage. With extremely sensitive horses, place the plastic wrap over the cotton (or pillow wrap or no-bow) so it’s not directly against the skin. Nitrofurazone-based sweats will stain the skin and hair yellow, so an alcohol-based sweat might be a better choice if you’re headed for the show ring.

Sweats are typically applied on a 12-hours-on, 12-hours-off schedule; however, your veterinarian might have different instructions depending on your horse’s situation. Most veterinarians make a medicated sweat for these purposes and can give you specific instructions on safe use and medication withdrawal time. Remember to wear gloves when applying a sweat to protect yourself, particularly if DMSO is an ingredient.

Today marks 5 years of Dr Sisk and Regan being a team! Man times flys when you’re having fun!
09/07/2026

Today marks 5 years of Dr Sisk and Regan being a team!

Man times flys when you’re having fun!

11 Equine Lameness Prevention TipsProactive strategies can go a long way toward helping your equine partner stay sound, ...
09/03/2026

11 Equine Lameness Prevention Tips

Proactive strategies can go a long way toward helping your equine partner stay sound, whether he’s a favorite trail buddy or a top competition horse. So in this article, three equine veterinarians and members of the academic community have weighed in with practical tips for maintaining a comfortable and happy horse.

1. Maintain a Team
While it might seem obvious, our sources can’t stress it enough: Be deliberate about maintaining a consistent relationship with your farrier and veterinary teams. “One of the biggest things for keeping horses sound and healthy is to establish a good working relationship with your veterinarian and farrier for regular maintenance and health care,” says Carolyn Hammer, DVM, PhD, associate dean of animal sciences at North Dakota State University, in Fargo. Ideally, your farrier and veterinarian should be able to communicate with one another when concerns arise.

2. One Size Doesn’t Fit All
When it comes to shoeing options, different lameness or hoof conditions require different hoof care strategies. Key to keep in mind, says Tena Ursini, DVM, PhD, CERP, Dipl. ACVSMR, clinical assistant professor of equine sports medicine and rehabilitation at the University of Tennessee, Knoxville, is the applied shoeing setup provides the mechanics the horse needs to maintain soundness.

“I think a lot of discrepancy between farriers and vets is based on veterinarians trying to prescribe an exact shoeing package: If the veterinarian’s recommendation is one that the farrier is familiar with and can be successfully applied to that individual horse, everything is great,” she explains. “If it’s a shoe type that the farrier is either not comfortable with or cannot actually be applied to that particular horse for whatever reason, things go poorly, and the horse never gets sound. At that point the owner is unhappy, the farrier is unhappy, the veterinarian is unhappy, and the horse is definitely unhappy.”

3. No Two Horses Are the Exact Same
Conformation is also unique to each horse. “The most important thing to realize is that not every horse is built the same; there is no single number for ideal hoof angle,” Ursini says. “It depends on how that horse moves and its conformation. Some horses are more upright, some have more angulation—so they will have a different foot angle in order to maintain an ideal hoof-pastern axis. Many people get fixated on a certain angle and try to fit every horse into the same box.”

In other words, horses are all individuals and must be treated that way.

4. Spinoff Effects
Don’t underestimate the importance of proper hoof balance, says Ursini. “The saying ‘no hoof, no horse’ is not an exaggeration,” she says. “Literally every mechanical aspect of how a horse moves can be altered by the shape and condition of their hooves. It is well proven in both the literature and clinical experience that horses with certain attributes—specifically, negative plantar or palmar angles of P3 (the angle the coffin bone makes with the ground; a negative angle means the back of the coffin bone is lower than the front of the bone, rather than both ends being level)—are associated with lameness and pain originating from the proximal suspensory, hock, stifle, sacroiliac (SI joint), and lumbar region.”

Ursini says in her experience, trying to treat all those sources of pain without addressing foot angles is impossible. “Corrective shoeing to improve the angles oftentimes removes the strain to certain structures, and after a short period of time I don’t even have to address those other issues, as the pain is secondary to the feet.”

5. Look Deeper
What you can see does not tell the whole story. “The outside of the foot can definitely lie to you,” says Ursini. “While some horses have obvious signs of imbalance just by looking at them, I’ve been surprised several times by the degree of imbalance a horse has on radiographs.

“For horses being asked to perform at a high level, I would strongly encourage people to have all four feet radiographed on a routine basis—every six months to a year—in order to try and find imbalances early, before they cause other problems,” she adds.

Hoof radiographs play a key role in long-term soundness for any horse, says Ursini: “I’d like to reinforce the importance of radiographs to truly evaluate the balance and angles of the feet.” She lists specific factors your veterinarian and farrier should look for, including:
* The angle the wings of the coffin bone make with the ground (palmar/plantar angle).
* Sole depth.
* Dorsopalmar/plantar (toward the front/back) hoof balance (relative to the coffin joint and vertical forces of the limb).
* Signs of arthritis, laminitis, navicular disease (aka podotrochlosis), or other hoof conditions.

6. Walk On
Don’t skimp on time spent walking, says Bruce Mandeville, JD, associate professor in Otterbein University’s Department of Equine Science, in Westerville, Ohio: “I don’t think we walk our horses enough. Horses are meant to be walking the majority of the day, yet many horses are stabled, ridden for 40 minutes, and stabled again.”

Mandeville, who represented Canada in three-day eventing at the 2000 and 2004 Olympic Games, as well as at the World Championships and Pan-American Games, notes that while actively competing, he would regularly walk his horses for up to an hour prior to gallops and again after galloping. “By walking long and low, the nuchal ligament that runs from the poll down the neck is engaged; this brings the spinal processes of the withers forward, putting positive tension on the nuchal ligament and, in turn, on (the) supraspinous ligament along the spine. This causes the back to raise and supports the weight of the horse’s torso.”

To that end Mandeville urges owners to gain as much biomechanical understanding of the horse’s anatomy as possible. “Be cognizant of the horse’s shape and postures for optimal use of structures like muscles, ligaments, and tendons,” he says. “It would help our industry if we had more exposure to biomechanics—we could help our horses use their bodies more efficiently.”

7. Leg Protection and Heat
Boots and wraps have long been mainstays for exercising horses. More recently they’ve become, literally, a hot topic. “Many owners are familiar with the recent study from Middle Tennessee State University concerning heat under boots and bandages,” notes Hammer. “There is obviously concern, but also in some events the need for protection. I think we’ll see more research looking at tendon temperature versus surface temperature.”

“I think we have overbooted in the past,” adds Mandeville. “Unless you have a specific need to boot, such as a horse that brushes (one foot or limb against the other during movement), the current approach is steering away from boots and wraps. This may be a case when we think we are doing something beneficial for the horse, but we’re not.”

Both Hammer and Mandeville note we might see more research surrounding cryotherapy techniques—icing, ice boots, and cold hosing—in the future to investigate the consistency of temperatures and the efficacy of various modalities and applications. They urge, as always, to consult your veterinarian if you have questions about leg protection and cryotherapy applications.

8. Therapeutic Products
Many barns employ popular modalities designed to keep horses as comfortable as possible, such as pulsed electromagnetic field therapy (PEMF), vibration plates, and gel boots. These modalities are worth considering, says Mandeville, based on his experiences leading classes on equine noninvasive therapies in which students tested various products on the university’s horses, measuring facial expressions and cortisol (stress hormone) levels in saliva.

“We see different effects on different horses. It’s worth exploring what brings comfort to your horse (after consulting your veterinarian, of course),” he says. “I would suggest horse owners try various therapies and see what the horse responds to the best before making an investment; each horse is different. You may also want to consider learning acupressure, which you can take as an online course.”

9. Arena Surfaces
Arena footing is a hot topic among riders and big business, as well, with a spectrum of surface options at various price points serving the needs of different sports and scenarios. Without doubt, arena surface construction and maintenance play roles in both performance and safety.

“Footing has evolved over the years and is very discipline specific,” says Mandeville. More recently “the main considerations are the condition and uniformity of the footing, drainage, dragging, and watering. The right conditions are a blend of art and science.”

Inconsistent footing can also be problematic. Mandeville cites the eventing cross-country course at the 2004 Athens Olympics, where surfaces changed from grass to dirt to arena footing, and many horses struggled to adjust to those changes, which can contribute to injuries.

For the average horse owner, however, “problems arise when the footing has degraded,” he explains. “Plan to replace your footing as needed. As much as possible, match your training footing to the type of footing you’ll be competing on.”

10. Do Your Research
From nutritional supplements to therapeutic boots and blankets, you’ll find many manufacturers (and horse owners and trainers) claiming their products support equine soundness. But don’t take what you hear at face value.

“I think it’s really important for owners to do their due diligence to find information,” says Hammer. She offers two points to consider:
1. Work with an equine nutritionist or veterinarian to establish a dietary program, including forage, concentrates, and supplements, to ensure both ingredients and levels are efficacious for your horse.
2. Alternative therapies of various types have grown in popularity, and some have better science behind them than others. “Chiropractic and massage can be great options for keeping horses comfortable,” says Hammer. “This is where a good relationship with your veterinarian comes into play; these therapies can’t fix every problem. Also, licensing requirements vary by state. When alternative therapies are appropriate, reach out to your veterinarian for recommendations.”

11. Last But Not Least: Lifestyle
Remember, overall lifestyle can also contribute to soundness. Being too heavy—as commonly seen in many horses and other pets these days—puts a burden of stress on joints, ligaments, and tendons, says Hammer. In addition, says Mandeville, owners should consider exploring ways to allow horses to live more naturally, including as much turnout as is feasible for the individual situation.

Take-Home Message
Start by establishing a supportive equine care team and determining your horse’s individual needs. Then, these simple steps can go a long way toward keeping your horse sound and can save you time and money in the long run.

The Horse

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