09/13/2026
It's all in the level sanding prep before each coat is sprayed.
No matter how good it looks, odd shaped items don't always get perfectly uniform layers of finish, so we always level sand with blocks and by feel to keep each coat as uniform as we can get it.
This vacuum stabilized/dyed riser had a penetrating epoxy sealer x 2, sand back, then a base coat of finish sanded back to wood in a few areas filling pores, especially in the mango trims, then resprayed the base coat, level sanded, sprayed 2 sessions of mid coats, level sanding lightly in between, and this morning, a light level sand with a final 800 grit to smooth it out nicely, then sprayed a nice glossy top coat, which goes on smooth and lays down nice and flat.
I temp control the finish before it goes in the spray gun for a very repeatable final product.
This is a high-solids, post catalytic lacquer made specifically for bows, (Blacktail) and as lacquer fuses to lacquer, we get very nice, solid finishes.
Even though a final spray may look perfect, they are not. Every one gets a 1500-2000 grit wet sand and then buffed out.
I use an Adams autobody polish, one step method that works for me.
Very similar to the old auto lacquers in a lot of regards.
Lacquer can take more heat during buffing than modern polys can, so you use the process suited for your type of finish.
When we do satin/matte finishes on bows, all the steps are the same up until the final coat.
Gloss is used as base and mid coats, then a special flattening agent is added to the final top coat.
A few things I like about this system are I can adjust the sheen any way I want, there is no smell or off-gasing phase, and this type of lacquer fully cures in 3-4 days.
We'll show this bow when finished and fitted with hardware.
