AWAY GEAR

ENTERTAINMENT WHILST AWAY.
OUT RUNNING OR TRAINING:
I never intended this Page for reviewing individual items solely, or for monetisation, but I am so blown away by my JBL Speaker, that I thought I would share my SETUP:
Kalenji Waist Pocket Belt from Decathlon.
JBL GO3 Portable Waterproof Bluetooth Speaker.
Nylon cord to attach Belt to Speaker. Simple loop.
Wrist Wareable with Bluetooth that can store/drive music.
(My old Tomtom Adventurer works fine. Garmin, Fitbit, Apple, Samsung have many select models...)
SETUP VS Ear Pods-Buds/Headphones(WHY A BETTER IDEA):
-At eg Parkrun or training in a group, you cannot have conversations, nor hear anyone calling for help. It is nice to thank and engage with Marshals/Volunteers/Staff.
-You cannot hear cars, free roaming dogs nor people approaching. I've escaped aggressive dogs, because I heard them bark, and cars overtaking on solid white lines, on many an occasion! Good habits ate needed for EV's?-They ARE silent.
-Something in your ears says 'I may have a phone in my pocket. Mug me please!' (SA has an incredibly high rate of crime, including Street and Park opportunism. Do not get killed or injured for an item.)
>With the JBL at a low volume on your belt hidden, facing forwards under a T-shirt, you can manually control volume and advance tracks. Pause/Play can be controlled from your Wareable.
>Valuables like car key and ID can be stored out of sight and a water bottle also be attached so hands are free.
>>>Volume can be dialled right down if others may not appreciate your music. If someone collapses with mild heat exhaustion or any medical event ahead of you, you may need to call them for assistance(How can they hear you?). Of course a finish station with Guns n' Roses blaring, everyone attempting conversations, you could be ignored!
JBL GO 3
Mine will take less than half an hour to power it up fully, if I have played it for around 5 hours on low volume.
JBL GO 4
Apparently you can drive two of these together for a Stereo Effect. One review suggests the midrange and for vocals on the 3 is better, whereas Base on the 4 is best. A selection may depend on the type of sound and Hz you enjoy.
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EXTENDED TRIPS AWAY FROM HOME:
For minimalism, a good mobile can do the basics of many devices, quite well. Where cell coverage and power points are not available all the time, with proper planning, you can recharge your Powerbank and electric/electronic devices. And connect to wifi to dowload your movies/sound etc. And upload your pics/vids/pods etc.
However, if you love music and quality is a consideration, are prepared to carry the extra weight, then it is hard to beat a portable good quality speaker. Yes, we DO NOT want to be Ghettoblasting the birds n' bees away. Hearing the Bears or your fellow campers/hikers coming, is not a bad thing.
SW RADIO:
Often, in a foreign country, the FM signal stations will be in a language you may not understand. With no cell coverage and mobile/compact hardware not available yet, that can utilise low orbit Sats like Starlink, SW is still an option. Listening to BBC in English in the South American stix, no mobile coverage, for much of 7 months, gave me an idea of what was going on in the world. Hopefully the tech will improve. Older mobile phones had Radio on board, using the Headphones as Antennae. Many modern mobiles need a Station App and Web connection to get Radio. Data Hungry. Best you save your phone battery for more important things.
The low cost Telefunken in the Pic, I had delivered with my CHECKERS 60/60 Order for R400. Model TWR-300U.
I play it on average of 1 HR a day for 3 Weeks, then it takes 5 HR max to fully charge(Supplied with a 2 Pin 220 Cord). It has Media slots. I would take it abroad now, no doubt. Using the radio takes the work off my phone.

HYDRATION, CALORIES, HEAT &EXERCISE
This was addressed to a gentleman who felt a bit dizzy at Parkrun this weekend. He is mid 80's, in bloody good shape and has a hound named Leo, that could win a tug-of-war against a Bulldozer!:

"Peter. You had us a bit worried today... Understanding heat exhaustion, heat stroke etc may help some. "Survival Of The Fittest" by Dr. Mike Stroud is a really good read. IF:
-You have no medical conditions.
-Are sufficiently hydrated.
-Have enough calories.
-Keep the sun off your CPU(Suggest wearing a wide-brimmed hat).

THEN You should be good for +-7.5k's(5K+Walk In/Out).
Ed Webster was mid 80's and he told me he hated drinking water, after a dizzy spell.

SUGGEST Estimating your requirements beforehand.
A)Calories: An approximation for a gent of 170cm at 72kg, Healthy BMI: 100cal=1KM Walk=10g Body Fat."
7.5KM: Have around 750 calories in glycogen available:
+-350 cal being processed from Brekkie:
Bowl Oats/Milk with 2 Sugar, Banana.
(I do coffee, but as a diuretic, not good!)
+-400 cal stored from the day before.
B)Water: Minimum estimate of a litre of water per hour, first litre drunk before the activity starts. I don't carry water as it messes with my sense of freedom😁, but for activity beyond an hour I will drink more en-route.
C)Digestion: Allow +-1.5 HRS before you start walking.

If you have an extra snack before you sleep on Fri night, you can carbo load a little. I worked out this makes me sleep less!
Unfortunately to tap into fat readily, the body needs needs training.(Bruce Arnett, Skyrun King, once told us slowboats struggling in the Drakensberg 'Your body needs to be trained to burn body fat').

To Add:
-If you feel dizzy again, best you are in shade, resting and taking small sips water.
-Sunscreen and loose fitting breathable clothing can bring body temperatures down.
-Darwin, the through hike sage from the US, swears by wearing a Sun Hoody in high temps.
-Dousing clothes in water will cool you down too.
-Managing Heat Exhaustion/Stroke and Hypothermia is something best studied as part of a first aid/specialised course.
-Skin cancer kills. The thing is with the Big C, even if you remove a melanoma primary, you never know where secondaries will land up!
-Body weight or add-ons like a Backpack require special considerations.

I have a post on my AWAY GEAR page, on ideal carry weight for hikers, with relative info.

We all take stumbles. I've tripped on snares, stood in holes(mostly off path), and fallen flat on my face many times, breaking glasses...

I have fond memories of you cycling all over the Valley. U het nog baie goeie jare voor jou meneer!🌞 I realise you are an accomplished cyclist and probably know all of this, but would feel better knowing you have not forgotten the important stuff!

Our very best to Leo!!

A NOTE ON INJURIES
The inner cynic always sees unnecessary surgery keeping the medical machine spinning. Second or third opinions on an injury from more than one speciality, may be a good idea.
For Hiking and Running related conditioning, injuries and recuperation: A Podiatrist and Physiotherapist could be consulted. If you look at eg, Calf Strain and Plantar Fasciitis, after normal considerations like Foot Type, Heel Drop, Cushioning and Ankle Support; then one could eg ask:
A)Should the ideal footwear have a more ridgid or flexible Sole Combination(Outer-Mid/Rockplate-Shank setup)?
B)Do you need Arch support(Design-Insoles-Custom Orthotics)?
C)How much Cushioning(Maximal-Moderate-Minimal)
and Where(Heel-Forefoot-Mid Underfoot)?

These are one take on CS/PF. Do your homework before you agree to go under the knife/anaesthesia!

https://manorviewpractice.co.uk/clinical-services/first-contact-physiotherapy/calf-strain-calf-tear/

Plantar Fasciitis: Symptoms, Causes & Treatment Options Plantar fasciitis is inflammation in the plantar fascia — the ligament that connects your heel to your toes. It’s the most common cause of heel pain.

HOW TO DO THE TWO IN NATURE& ***WHEN AWAY:

This is a suggestion. If you are abroad, there may be more guidelines/regulations.
Faeces is best buried in a cathole well away from the trail. If not, when paths become channels for water in rain, bugs are unearthed and shipped onwards, possibly into streams.
This should help stemming waterborne bugs hopping across and between species.
(Ecoli, bacteria, viruses, parasites etc.)

FOR OUTDOORS
Trowel/Trekpole End/Wide Blade...
Water/Sanitiser to wash hands.
Loopaper/Biodegradeable wipes.
*Portable H20 Bidet or Pressure Spray.
(Eco friendly-Think "Toilet Duck")
**PVC Ziplock bag.

Dig a hole +-15cm off path well away from a water course.
Deposit monster.
Put paper/wipe on top and fill in, if biodegradeable.
In some places, it is deemed ethical to remove your loo
paper, especially with higher PVC composites used.
(Rather lose the loopaper-wipes totally)
Drive a small stick in upright to mark the spot.
Some burn the paper but this could start a fire.
A huge rock that a scavengers cannot move can be put atop too.
(Be careful when lifting it. Scorpions, sssnnnakkes etc)
Perhaps an eco-friendly cap of disinfectant may be a good thing!

*There are an assortment. You can use a common mini pressure pump sprayer head used for washing windscreens-spraying insecticides. It takes practice. Operate the lever with your thumb and direct water upwards at an angle where it is needed. The price is a slightly wet butt, which will dry.

**So you do not want to use water nor have biodegradeable paper? Or you despise paper anywhere? ... Why not take your paper out with you in a bag?

***Remember, in some parts of the world, when indoors, the paper does not go into the conventional loo or floor toilet. A bag should be present. If not, you are somewhere it is not customary to use paper. Work your technique and remember the left hand is considered unclean in some places. eg At a table or when meeting someone.
You may be confronted by a floor loo, bucket and pitcher or hand shower only. Performing the water cleansing act successfully on a western toilet, is done by many!!

Watch a video before you go!! Practice😏😀😂
A popular oriental author was once adressing a western audience... and all she could think about was how many people were sitting there with dirty bottoms. Often the wisdom of culture is a paradox. Simple but beyond grasp, especially to an inflexible mind. Be patient and question your own conventions... The world may be a better place because of it!

https://www.muchbetteradventures.com/magazine/how-to-poo-outdoors/?utm_campaign=mag_poooutdoors_030725&utm_medium=organicsocial&utm_source=facebook&utm_content=feed&fbclid=IwY2xjawLYg1lleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHrXEfogfzYvYw0Jc8zqlwJiP-C6BtK88EPE66yLati5GLFwgV8-jaZP-34qW_aem_ChpH7bC9zTiG5knqEGC-aQ

A Deep Dive into Human Faeces in Our Wild Places We take a metaphorical squat to ask the outdoor experts about pooing in wild places. How do we answer nature's call, while protecting our places of beauty?

FOOTPRINTS VS GROUNDSHEET
Tent specific footprints are made to size, protect your tub and provide insulation. Unnecessarily expensive. Some Options:
1)Highlander Basha from Camp and Climb. It is truly multipurpose. Most materials do not deal with UV very well. I've replaced my Gzebo covers with a similar SADF nylon ground sheet, and it has lasted way longer!
2)You could cut a survival bag open to your dimensions, then get an eyelet kit or stick two matchbox squares of material on the 4x corners, then synge a hole for tentpegs.
3)I put a closed cell camping mat under the tent. Not only does it protect the tub with more cm, it gives you better insulation, even if you still carry an inflatable mattress.
4)Standard Groundsheets: Coglans and many other branded silver one side, green opposite with eyelets, break down quickly. Polyester does not like sun. A better quality, in various sizes can be obtained from North Ridge or one of their many stockists:

Groundsheet | North Ridge Rolls up into this small pouch. Groundsheet weight: 380grams Shelter weight: 743 grams

PEELING/FLAKING PU COATING ON OLDER BACKPACKS

The coating used was a Polyurethane mostly, like on the older 20YR+ Karrimor and Backpacker products. Especially on 1000D material. When you are lucky, you can pull it off like sunburnt skin. When it flakes, it needs a soak in hot water(eg Bath-tub)with Dishwash soap, then put it on paving and give it a good scrub with a nailbrush. Thereafter a hosepipe(good pressure)for a rinse. If you wanted to keep a pack longterm, thereafter I would try a bit of Methylated Spirits to attack adhesion. Just a hosing will make a diffs. Water ingression will be through seams and zips, so if you have a pack cover, that will help.
If you find black powder in the tub, that is from the padding used, which breaks down over time. Fear not, as the straps on these packs had wide hip and shoulder straps, so the loss of comfort is minimal. If you are a golite hiker, you may be happy, as you could lose 100g+ in weight😁.
Of course you could find a product to waterproof the material once dry. Another rinse after meths or the sealant may not bond. I use General Purpose Nikwax Spray as it can be used on Flysheets, Shells and Synthetic Boots.
If you are going to use a sealant, I suggest a good clean first, or else you may get more than flakes on your clothes...

TREKPOLES-ANOTHER TAKE:
aka Hiking Poles/Sticks.

My thinking has changed a little after more Webwork and feedback from hikers:

Servicability is probably directly proportional to correct use, inversely to force leveraged and quality of materials used. The activity and environment, when known beforehand (Crossing rivers, walking dry riverbeds, boulder hopping etc..)determine where they are needed most and how many to use.

A)3 PIECE TURN-LOCK SHOCK ABSORBENT ALUMINIUM HIKING POLES.
Turn-lock poles seem the most economical and prolific design used in SA, but can be over-torqued and rendered less functional. One weakness in most 3 piece aluminium-alloy shock absorbing systems, is their common locking design flaw, which is almost identical in the various brands that I have dismantled, for retail prices per pole up to R600 each.
The locking action in these is achieved by turning an alloy bolt into a poly-nylon type rawl fitting. If overspun, the thread weakens and ultimately can strip.

B)3 PIECE CLICK-LOCK NON-SHOCKABSORBING ALUMINIUM HIKING POLES:
These, with few options available in brick n' mortar stores, in my unqualified estimation, can be another good option. You may get more positive and immediate feedback if you prefer, but the sacrifice is no shock absorption!

C)LEVER LOCK POLES
You simply flick the lever over and this locks the pole in position. Seems a simple principle. Even if the pole material pressure yielded a little, movement should be minimal. In time and with use, the cam should wear down or the material yield... At what point it would then slide continuously, who knows? Seem to be used on high end heavier, long lasting poles.

D)CORD AND SLOT
Like tentpoles, they seem to assemble quickly. I have not used them. How long the cord will last and adjustability needs a look at. Often used with Carbon Fibre and minimalist poles.

MATERIAL TYPES/WEIGHTS
-If you are doing a much longer hike with mostly paths and flats, then weight may be a consideration, especially if you are carrying two. Carbon Fibre would be the go to. Expensive and the idea of shattering under weight with potential consequences, has made this not my first choice. A thinner aluminium pole may be a better choice then.
-Most are made from aluminium, alloys and steel tubing in different gauge thickness, resulting in different weights. If you are hoping to hold dogs off, then a well made, heavier and thicker pole may give you some peace of mind.
-Crossing eg rivers, boulders or a moraine with a heavy pack, slipping and putting much weight on to a pole, means thicker and heavier should be better! This is more common sense than results of destructive testing.
-Safety considerations may be a reason to go with
established brands and good quality reputations, rather
than mass produced cheap imports of unknown QA/QC.

SAFETY WARNING
-The real danger is that it is only when pressure is exerted on the pole that you can see whether it will hold, move or collapse. That can be hazardous.
-The safest is thus not to over-rely on the poles for balance. They are good for assisting forward uphill momentum, speed hiking and controlling descent.
-My view remains that it is best to ONLY USE 1x MOSTLY
for hiking, so your other hand remains free if you fall, or
need to grab onto something. BUT have 2x available for situations deemed more ideal.
-On all of the pole types, it makes good sense to keep
adjustment and collapsing to a minimum, to preserve
mechanical/material integrity! If yours do plenty duty
with much adjustment, perhaps they should be replaced!
Mark them so you can share work load or only replace
1x that you use most often. In a group, a marker on your
poles should make sure it does not get mixed up with
other people's.
-Trekpoles have their place, but please do concentrate
on using them correctly in a suitable application.
-PLEASE see a video on how to use them correctly!
Hand goes over the strap!!
-Grow your own sense of awareness, concentration and
balance rather than over-relying on them!

TENTS USING TREKPOLES
Some golite tents are being designed to use a trekpole in place of a tentpole. If you use it with a tarp, survival bag etc... it will thus obvsly provide emergency shelter too! Make sure that the adjustment mech is suitable. Telescopic and turn lock would probably be better as wind picks up and tent stakes move a little. Make sure your pole handle/end and inserion into the tent are compatible, not hindered by the basket, and will not create damage under strain or movement.

STOPENDS
The function of these can be to prevent poking holes through your and other peeps packs n' stuff, especially during transit.
Once the basket is affixed, I use a solidifying epoxy to glue them onto the base, pressed down as far as possible.
This stops the noise and tungsten tip chipping on rock. The rubber provides a good friction hold. When worn, I cut the rubber off and replace with the old kitchen chair rubber ends. R25 for 5x at a hardware outlet. Use thick rubber composite rather than pvc dominant stopends.

BASKETS
Use them or not, upside or down, depending on the medium you are crossing and what works best. I generally use mine V-up so it deflects off rock and collects less mud where shallow.

FOR THE CAMPFIRE.
When you're bored and the crickets are deafening!
1)Ask if anyone has/plays a Game.(13's)
2)Explain the concept.
3)Introduce your *GPNT's.
4)Take no longer than 3 minutes.
5)If you are probably never going to see them
again, don't be shy to say a little more...

If no one else plays you could ask, eg:
a)What are you most passionate about?
b)What are the biggest challenges we face?
c)If you could pick Xx people for a social, who do
you think, could add value/sort the challenge?
d)If everyone has had a chance/not interested...
Play a game with them/not/later!
e)Share or refer them to this post.
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13 FOR DINNER/G&T's
Experiencing life, we encounter, hear about or read inspiring people. It can be anybody. Family, friend, historical or contemporary. We also may want to know more about them. Or share their lives, wisdoms, examples, witticisms etc with others. We can eg read Biographies, Wiki or Webwork... Or feel they deserve deeper study academically.

Often in lines waiting, at socials or whenever we have time to burn, we can visit the Open Spaces of our own and other's fertile, yet untapped imagination.
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BUILD *GAME/PARTY &NUMBERS/THEME(GP&NT).EG:
Open a folder in your Profile Photos or create a Group.
Use privacy settings for your targeted participants.
(I shall leave mine "Public", as an example)
You can eg, select people and Specific Party Themes(SPT)only, should you wish.
Add something educational as you go along for Self or Group Study, eg Guidelines for Debate, English 101, Apologetics Intro, Different Language Groups/Levels etc...
If you've hosted a Book Club, then you could structure the "To Reads" according to an agreed upon list of Characters.. etc.
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WIL'S GAME
1)Note what every one of their lives exemplifies to you.
2)As Director-Inquisitor-Mediator(DIM)😁, You are No 1.
Allocate numbers 2-13/Call Names(CN).
3)A Game: Imagine asking them questions yourself, how they could respond, and what you would say.
4)B Game: One at a time, imagine types of questions that could interest them, in conversation with each of the other 12, given what you know about them. And your comments to them
5)C Game: Have an impasse, then imagine inputs from the other 10, one at a time, seeking consensus.
6)Create a Written(For others to share)
Blockchain Game Record, eg:
WM001-Unique Game Player DIM Number
WM1-13: List of Party Guests/Names/Call Names
7)Keep track of your own Game:
WM001/13/A/1&7/T1/T2/T3
A-The Game Type(ABC)
1&7 In Conversation
T1 Theme:
T2 Topic:
T3 Thread:
8)When time allows, imagine the numbers/names, picking up where you left off...
9)Share your games/convos with others:
Eg: My Party/Numbers are... And '17 were last'
10)My Themes: In the making...🌅

FOOTWEAR SELECTION &HAPPY FEET SA
-The following may seem an overkill.
-Repetition is in context of a specific question/aspect.
-Suggest skimming post and eclecting value for You.
PHYSIOLOGY VS NEEDS
-People choose footwear for various uses.
-We have very different feet from each other.
-We can have pairs for multiple/specific use.
-The journey of many miles starts with a footstep. Your life is largely in your hands.
-Your legs are your biggest calorie burners.
-Look after feet and joints for a long, mobile life!!
-This is for mere mortals who want to get
moving, fit and go places.
-It is important to realise that even speciality shops need to move stock they have! You believe everything a salesperson says at your own peril!
-If you consider trying on shoes with a Foot Type/Heel Drop/Features(FTHDF)not made for you, you could land up with shoes that "feel" comfortable/look good, but after km's, conditions and inclines, you may realise you have made a mistake.
-You could get lucky and the "Feelgood" shoes will work for you, especially if you are younger, fit and stronger, so your body can make the necessary adaptations without a "transitioning" phase and/or exercise program.
-Be informed and try to do it more right first time!
-Make sure you do plenty km in the shoes and are happy, before you tackle a more demanding or faraway event.
-If you are choosing footwear for shorter events where you are moving fast, you may want a more snug fit for better grip/sensitivity to the ground.
-Do at least 100 meters in a shop with socks to be used, before taking a decision.
-A chat with those who have gone before can help.
-For starting in the park, your comfy sneakers or running shoes are good, to see if it is for you.
-If you feel like you need more info, are not sure, or the Sales Data/Salespersons are vague, do some more homework.
-Options: A better selection of footwear can be made once your needs, foot variables and conditions expected are known.
runrepeat.com and runnersworld.com are brilliant for seeing what is popular, highly rated and recommended
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BE OBJECTIVE AND PRIORITISE FEATURES
-It may suit you to look good in the woods, but if that is more important than suffering, march on!
-Quite often it is hard to find a pair that will tick all of your boxes.
-Stores usually sort sections by activities with suitable features.

A)KNOW YOUR FOOT TYPE
(Neutral/Pronation: Over-Under)
-You can do the wet foot test. Google.
If you have the cash/medical aid, check with a sports physio or foot medical specialist and no one less qualified.
-The selection of boots hardly allows for foot structure.
-If you have pronation issues and run, you probably will have found a structured/suitable model and/or orthotics. Selecting hiking footwear thereafter, mostly made for Neutral feet, may then require orthotic insoles.
-A good podiatrist may know of brands/models that will be more friendly to your foot type and body, after a proper foot analysis.
-David Ives in Hikers SA is one gent who makes sense and enjoys the outdoors.

B)DO YOU NEED/ ARE YOU GOING TO USE ORTHOTICS/DIFFERENT-ADDITIONAL INSOLES
-You can take up excess space to finetune a fit, or if you are going to carry heavy and want more cushioning. Think about changing insoles or adding a uniform 3-5 mm insole, like the Aptonia 100 from Decathlon. Mine have taken about 1000km including rucking with a third of my body weight. They are one size. You use your standard insoles as a template, then cut them to size.

C)SIZES
-For many km, you may want to go 1/2-full size up:
>Feet swelling.
>Accomodating layers of socks/thicker weights for different temperatures.
>Making sure your toes do not touch the front going downhill.
>An additional/custom insole.
-Trying on a shoe for YOU, is more important than the number claimed.
-See if half sizes are available: Sometimes a retailer only has full brand sizes, whilst the brand factory outlet or shop abroad, may have half sizes, in the widths required.
-In SA we talk UK sizes. Make sure that is what you are looking at for reference to start!
-For an exact metric, some stores have a step-in frame.
-Most brand tags or boxes show comparative standards.
UK, US, EU.
-When shoes are made, your foot structure, and the amount, type and positioning of materials used; can effect your fit into the particular size. Or Model.
(Foot physiology above your soles can be different in mass and shape. A shoe can thus be too tight or loose, even after lacing).
-Some brands have various models, in which you may find a better fit than your normal UK/US/EU sizes.
-A finger width in front of your outermost toe is a rough guide.
-If you have wider feet, look at models with "widish" noted in reviews.Or offerings like New Balance with 2E(Wide)/4E(Extra Wide). Why New Balance or standard Nikes work for me.
-South Africans have wider feet. The lot of us mostly. Please, marketing managers! There was a time when I was spoilt for choice, more than 15 years ago. More brands and models now, less that fit!
-Players like Salomon, On-cloud and Kalenji are popular, but seem to not have more wider options available locally.
-Size nomination can be erratic by manufacturers, so best to try footwear on first
(Why I dont buy any off the web, even for upgraded models)

D)HEEL DROP(HD)
-Google/Wiki "Heel Drop" as a starter.
-This is a well written article explaining heel drop:
https://www.zappos.com/c/what-is-heel-to-toe-drop
So what is Heel Drop then? Difference between heel/sole mm and footbed/sole mm totals.(Stack Heights) Also called "Offset".
-Important to note, what manufacturers claim as HD, vs that measured in a Lab, can have huge differences. RUNREPEAT do a Lab test, where they cut the various shoes in half to measure manufacturer CLAIMED stack heights and determine ACTUAL HD. Incredibly, there are major differences.
-HD is normally shown on display models in store.
-Much depends on how fast you want to move and what you are presently running/hiking and exercising with, or have been wearing.
-With Low Drop(+-4-6mm)-0 HD(LD), your calves have a longer range of motion. So if you have always worn footwear, from say 10-12mm; then that is what your calves, achilles n' body have adapted to. If you select LD shoes, without "Transitioning" downwards(calve and stretching exercises)you can "rip" a calf or do numerous other forms of damage. People who have made a transition downwards, swear by the benefits of extended motion.
-I get away with 8mm HD offroad as heel strike is not as severe on the softer stuff. Landing on grass and cushioning make it hard to figure ideal HD. Trial and error.
-The fitter I get, the more the wear on shoes moves from heel to midfoot and toe.
-My thoughts are that with hiking boots, especially if you are carrying a heavy pack, moving slower, you heel strike earlier, so some mm+ may be good for heel compression.
-Some of the brands I used to enjoy, now have a wide range, but in 8mm(Actual?) and less Heel Drops. In 10-12mm I used to really enjoy New Balance, Nike, Saucony, Asics, Adidas.
-It is tempting to try Hoka, Altra, Vivo etc because of plush cushioning, OR at the opposite end, minimalism. These are largely LOW/ZERO HD....Careful!!
-Start slow or transition downwards with a program. Youtube have good vids thereon.
-Your muscles, calves especially, ligaments and tendons, need to settle in their new range of movement. More or less!
-If you were more active at some stage in your life, it may be good to recall the model of footwear you were moving with, then find out and start with the same Model/Heel Drop(Many have continued)before you transition upwards or downwards. You may be fortunate to still have a pair of shoes you were comfortable in.

E)SELECTIONS FOR LADIES IN SA
Someone lamenting the dire selection:
I posit the reason for less variety of ladies boots in SA, and much stock that does not move for men too, is that many brand marketing teams are asleep. We have wider feet, especially Dutch and Ethnic Saffas I believe. So the inappropriate ranges brought in just sat there. It made sense not to re-stock them. This is true to trail and running shoes. You need to start with your foot type and heel drop required. You can go 1/2 to a full size up if you know your comfortable UK size. Sizes are rated on dimos of feet, but the amount and flexibility of your uppers including insoles can give you a different sense of comfort. The reason New Balance do so well in SA, is that their ranges and models with space for toe splay, and a selection of width options, allow you to dial the fit in to where you want it. I believe this running shoe size situation correlates to Hiking Boots/Crossovers.
-"Best" would be best for you! As a lady that may not necessarily be a LDS shoe, given the possibility of your foot structure being different to the norm catered for by a manufacturer or model.
-Some ladies with wider feet and more flat arches may find happines in MNS shoes.
-Colour is probably the least important aspect, if you want a comfortable experience. However, if you are someone whose priority is to look good in the stix, it can be most important...😁
-Salomon, Keen, Merrel &Hitec are popular...

F)FEATURES FOR SPECIFIC PURPOSES
OTHER FACTORS
-There are considerations more serious runners make like whether they strike(Toe-Midfoot or Heel), weight of shoe, energy return etc.
-Outersoles-Regular Mud(Confuguration: Lugs, length, grooves and spacing for easy clean?)
-Cushioning(Plush, medium, minimal?)
-Midsoles(Energy return, ridgid, flexible?)
-Shank-Rockplate(Full/half/Twothirds...)
-Dunk&Dry Or Waterproof?(Breathable or Goretex-Waterproof/Resistant.
-Warmth, Insulation against cold(Snow, ice...)
-Use with waterproof socks for versatility?
(eg Dexshell-Sealskinz....)
-Attachments for anklets/gaiters?
-Toe guards.
-Too much aeration can let fine sand in.
-If you are using Chainsen/Yaktrax, then a lowcut hiker may have more rigidity than a trail shoe.
-Mountaineering Boots and Crampons are a subject on its own.

G)GENERAL NOTES
-You may have to make tradeoffs when considering options, including budget.
-If you know your FTHDF and find the best footwear for YOU, there is a better chance of having a happy body and feet long term.
-Knee and hip replcements are expensive, inconvenient and unnecessary, if you select the right footwear and train more sensibly. Minor damage to cartilage and ligaments can effect your mobility.
-Reviews: There is much to look at when selecting footwear, but if models have worked their way up the ratings for specific foot types, and everyone wears them, they should be good for a look at.
-See eg Youtube: Darwin On The Trail/Dixie if you are contemplating longer/throughikes abroad and how to deal with hiking on ice and in snow, things bears etc.
-When something fits me well on sale, I buy a few pairs.
-NEVER use vinegar on any shoes. My outer soles on a pair of Nikes that I took years to find, just peeled off! 😁

-I prefer a design/materials that are comfy from day one and
don't need 'breaking in'.
-As such, I enjoy Inov8, but in limited models.
I have done over 750km in Parkclaws. Outersoles last, but uppers split after +-500km. Know that a tight fit for grip will possibly do that in all shoes. No need to diss the brand!
-The absence of overt fine grooves/lug configuration and compounds used means they stick to rock and after a muddy run, a simple 10 sec hose spray clears debris. Then they can be left in the sun. Mwah!!
-Look forward to trying the G-series(Graphene)

-I have a pair of old Nike Air Alvord 10's that will not die. New Nike trail shoes are a worthy look-at on specs and positive reviews. Wild Horse, Pegasus Trail etc.
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H)ALL THAT MAKES ME HAPPY
ROAD RUNNING SHOES DRY
-Neutral 10mm HD
-New Balance 880 V10-13 2E width.
-The NB 1080 is hugely popular but 8mm HD.
(In 2025 they are sporting 6mm HD. Older 10/8mm HD may still be available at discount prices. Suggest getting a few pairs on Black Friday if they work for you!! )
-This old guy may be able to transition downwards by 2 mm on road. Near killed my calves using Saucony X 4mm HD's!!
-The Nike Pegasus range work well, going 1/2 size up, but I just dont get the mileage that I do out of New Balance on soles and uppers.

ROAD RUNNING SHOES-WET
-Neutral 10mm HD
+Grooves for water shedding &Some temperature insulation.
-Old Nike Pegasus Shield 34's. That is it for me. They breathe a little unlike the Goretex models I have tried. A slip has consequences!
-Perhaps just move slower on a wet surface.

ROAD SHOES-HEAVY CARRY PACK TRAINING
-Neutral 12>10mm HD
-For plenty heel compression.
-Older Nike Pegs work for me now.
-Brooks, Saucony and Mizuno may warrant a visit as they have had 12mm HD.

TRAIL/ALL TERRAIN/PARKRUN SHOES
-Neutral 8-10mm HD
-Mixing it up on Asphalt/Blacktop/Tar, Gravel and easy Trails.
Inov8 Parkclaw 275
New Balance Hierro V6-7

EG: MORE TECH NEEDED/SPECIFIC TERRAIN
-EG Where you have plenty Rock, Roots, Mud etc.
(Rockplate for sharper rock.)
-Neutral 8-10mm HD
Inov8 Trailroc 285
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I)HIKING BOOT SELECTION SA ACROSS SEASONS
1)Given changes in conditions:
-Surfaces/Terrain/Seasons.
>Blacktop, trail, rock
>Water, mud
>Snow, ice
>Sand
-Medium origins/volume surrounding a foot.
(Vertical, horizontal, Immersion/depth...)
-Duration of usage/exposure.
(Continuous, dunk...)
-Foot workrate, temperature.
(Heat>perspiration>condensation/breathability.
Cold>circulation>freeze/insulation)

2)Then preventing accidents, suffering eg blisters-skin softening, and infection can be a challenge that requires some strategy and an appropriate selection of footwear/accessories.

3)SUGGEST: THREE PAIRS at least:
Suggest Wear 1-Carry 1 for conditions.
>1x PAIR EACH HIKING BOOTS with soft &flexible mid-height collars, 2/3 shanks. For rollover protection, especially in river beds and moraines abroad, with a load on your back.
Some peeps do well in trailshoes only.

-DRY CONDITIONS: 1PR Breathable uppers.
Material must breathe, but keep fine sand out.
(Pukka mids or speedpacking crossovers)

-WET CONDITIONS: 1PR Waterproof uppers.
(Pukka mids or speedpacking crossovers)
-SOLO-WILDERNESS: 1 PR Leather uppers.
(Mids with material thick enough to deal with abrasion and a snake strike?
>>1x PAIR TRAIL SHOES Lowcut collars with stone shield and lugs that grip/can be easily cleaned. Heel drop to match your running-walking shoes with consideration for heel strike cushioning with a heavy load. Also for long flat sections/trails and a change of shoes at night, whilst the other pair are drying out or eg a sole has detached! Or for moving fast.

DRY&WET CONDITIONS: 1 PR Highly Breathable,
dunk, drain &dry. With Waterproof socks where needed.
-If you are in really cold climes, consider something like the Salomon Snowcross/Nike Zoom Turbos with raised bo**ie mid-like that are waterproof, have a slightly higher soft collar and are zipped-velcroed for a better seal without collar agitation(It must stick to and move with your ankle)
-Goretex supposedly breathes. Allegedly works better when cold. Some proprietary materials do an at least equal job, in my limited estimation.
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CROSSOVERS
-The Inov8 Mid Crossovers between a Hiking and Trail Running Shoes are simply incredible. Here conventional wisdom suggests going a size up.
In recent years, there has been a movement away from heavy, inflexible uncomfortable boots that need longer to be worn in...Towards either Trailshoes or a Crossover Hybrid(CH) between a mid, Lowcut Hiker and Trailshoes.
If you look at Runrepeat(Hiking Boot search)or many other review sites, with the various ratings, then the following are examples available in ZA as popular or close to CH choices:
8-12MM+HD
Salomon X-Ultra 3 or 4 Mids.
Inov8 Roclite
0-6MM HD(LD)
Altras
Inov8
Hoka Tor
On Cloud
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RAINPANTS
For years I simply pulled rainsuit pants over leather boots and kept two cut sanwich bags with elastic handy, in case there were deep puddles. I had wet feet occasionally when dunking with no loopseal around the ankles.
-Rainpants go over everything and improve the sealing, offsetting water running into your footwear.
-A 1.5-3mm bungee loop around ankles works well.
-Pants with zips and velcro are good for putting on/taking off without removing your boots, but do not seal as well as a close fitting rainpants.
-Use or make a hem to insert the bungee cord with a small sliding lockmech!
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WATERPROOF SOCKS.
-I tried a pair of Sealskinz. There are other good brands like Dexshell. You need to see if they are for you. In certain conditions, they could save your toes. There is a variety of thicknesses and heights for varying conditions, with merino or bamboo yarns on the inside to control microbes, odours and breathability.
Stateside neoprene is used in varying thicknesses, like flipper socks, to provide extra insulation.
If the sock is big enough to fit another on the inside, then you should be able to layer for insulation from the cold or to wick away/absorb perspiration.
-Layering socks and pairs extra work better for moisture management for me.
-Drynamix liner, midweight merino for winter/blend for summer.
-Cotton may kill in the mountains, but in summer cotton socks work well for me.
-Keep your toenails short and rounded so you do not make holes in socks... and lose toenails.
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PREVENTING BLISTERS, ODOUR& FUNGI ETC
-Walk or run your footwear in before you go.
-Layering socks reduces friction but should not faciliate bunchup.
-Look after your feet, change or wash those socks.
-Air &dry your feet at night or during stops.
-If you feel a ni**le, stop and look at the problem.
-I keep the bottom of a pair of ladies stockings to put over socks to reduce friction.
-When a hotspot does not vanish, I use a piece of eg cereal/soup box cut to the shape of the problem area.The rough part goes against shoe, shiny against sock. Wet a little so it sticks and kinda forms as required. Practice.
-Talking blister management has many approaches. In agreement is that you should not lance them, but do keep them clean and covered. Treat as a wound if they burst.
-Needless to say, running and walking barefoot to harden feet, along with clean footwear and socks, will make them more hardy and less susceptible to blisters...
Some peeps use meths to harden feet.🤔
Lekka blou voete!!
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HOW MUCH MILEAGE SHOULD ONE EXPECT OUT OF FOOTWEAR?
-The performance you get out of a particular pair of boots(same brand- model), can vary for a multitude of reasons.
If you look at eg, Runrepeat's Top Hiker review/rating system, a more general view can be gleaned comparatively.
-Often Drifters have quite a few that are well-rated, recommended by the site and popular with hikers. You can then compare brands-models in one shop. And fit them. It is not unreasonable, like with running shoes to expect at least 600-800+ km. To get these km's whilst your feet remain happy, is the challenge.
-Your classic wear-in boot with leather upper, quality stitching-bonding and vibram sole can give you moderate comfort, plenty km. A boot that is highly comfortable from day one, flexi-meshed and cushioned, can become less comfortable as it "bottoms out" and toenails abrade the upper mesh.
-I have resoled 2xpairs with leather uppers 3x times before 1xpair died. In volcanic ash I killed a pair of Hitecs in a day. One hard kick against a rock can weaken an outer sole attachment..
-For a balance of needs, including good wear, I use Salomon X-Ultra GTX Mids for the wet and Inov8 Roclite Mids(8mm HD) for heat-vent conditions. Drifters have the Inov8 345 in GTX (8mm HD). Perfect for speedpacking.
-Remember there are many popular boots, like Altras.... that are zero-low drop!!
-My fav hiking boot evva is a Salomon GTX7. It has lugs on the ankle for a semi-auto crampon if chainsen/yaktraks etc are not for you, and it is flexible enough to do big km's. I managed to get a second pair on Gumtree. Griffs Pawnshop in Edenvale has a few pairs.
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SHOPPING SA
The downside of shoe and gear review sites is that not everything is available in SA at a bricks and mortar shop to try on. I have a love for happy feet, but have seldom paid full price for footwear and try having a specific shoe for a specific event. To save:
Black Fridays
Nike Factory Outlet: June Sales(Hard on BF)
Sportsman's Warehouse Yellow Ticket(+1/3BF)
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SUNNY SA
I black out my brand logos so that I am not mugged or killed for a pair of shoes. But if someone is desperate, should we offer up our shoes so our lives are spared? Is getting out in groups the more safer option when there are more people to take from? Oh crrapp, who knows??
My wearable is square and plastic looking so as not to scream it is worth as much as a cell phone. Put those expensive things away!
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RETHINK/SIMPLIFY HIKING FOOTWEAR FOR SA
IN DEMANDING/VARYING CONDITIONS:
-Whilst options are split between Dunk &Dry or Waterproof, do you really want to try drying cold/wet feet at night whilst it is still raining and the wind howling outside, eg atop the Berg?
-If you are hiking up or down hills, the water runoff should stop you from standing in deep pools. Rivers can be crossed, eg in your sandals or aquabo**ies... The object then is to keep your feet dry!
-Having rainsuit pants over midcut boots or crossovers should suffice. Or use an anklet that seals well. For a quick dunk and not have water ingression!!
-If you are going to move fast in dry conditions, then a breathable boot, crossover or trail shoe may be better.

A)EVENT
TO START: EG 5KM>THEN ANOTHER:
PACE:Walk 45-60/Jog 30-44/Run

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