20/07/2026
RIVER TRAIL IN A MOUNTAIN PARADISE
There is a strange semicircular ring of mountains about 120km south of Johannesburg that are unique on Planet Earth and also very beautiful.
These are the Dome Bergland and to many visitors it comes as a surprise to find such wild, bushy country so close to the big city - and yet seemingly so far and so remote.
What gives it special appeal is that a major river runs through them, in a valley formed millions of years ago by a giant glacier. One of the best ways to see and experience what this breathtaking landscape has to offer is to float down the river between the mountains.
They form the first ring (or what remains of it) of the deeply eroded Vredefort impact structure, which has three rings and is about 300 km across. Johannesburg lies on the third, outer ring, which is the Witwatersrand (a fact that few residents of the city know or understand).
The valley is typically U-shaped with a flat bottom and steep mountainsides. The Vaal River runs along the valley floor and nearby is the gravel road to the quaint village of Venterskroon. The Dome Drift paddling trail takes its name from the core of the crater nearby.
The entire range is steeped in history and idca scientific Mecca. River paddlers accompanied by an expert guide get to learn about is as they splash along on gently flowing currents. From the Iron Age Tswana who occupied these hills for more than a thousand years, until invaded by the breakaway Zulu chief, Mzilikazi; to modern tourism developments, there are few South African environments that offer such a rich store of knowledge.
Venterskroon is a kind of miniature Pilgrims Rest, a former mining village. Some 150 years ago, fortune seekers flocked here in a gold rush that predated the discovery of the Witwatersrand goldfields.
In these same mountains, one of the more significant battles of the Anglo-Boer War took place in 1900. Here the crafty Boer General, Christiaan de Wet, outwitted a British force under Lord Methuen. The event was strategically important for two reasons.
First, De Wet managed to spirit the President of the Free State, Reitz, across the Vaal at Schoemansdrift and into the Transvaal to meet President Kruger at Waterval Boven and persuade him that the Boers should keep on fighting even though Pretoria had been occupied by Lord Roberts and the British Army.
Second, it was at Schoemansdrift that De Wet sent his wagon train on a diversionary route to mislead the British while his commando escaped intact. This marked the moment when the war turned decisively from from pitched battles to guerilla tactics.
The 20th century would witness many such wars, where mobile fighters ambushed regular troops only to melt away into the landscape. De Wet set the pattern - but also provoked a genocidal response by Kitchener, who resorted to a scorched earth policy. Boer farms were burnt and families rounded up by the thousands to be dumped in the century's first concentration camps to die of disease and starvation.
If the war prefigured things to come, so did the Bergland itself. Here geologists figured out that the mountains were formed by a massive meteorite impact, creating the biggest visible crater and the most celebrated such site in the world. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, after decades of scientific debate about it's origins.
Aside from wars and rocks, the Bergland is a botanical treasure. Tagged as "Bankenveld" this peaceful, varied landscape plays host to grassland, forests, windswept crests where only hardy plants survive. The ridges, or “banke” in Afrikaans, mark a transition zone between typical veld and montane ecology.
Red Ivorywood (Berchemia zeyheri) grows especially on the rocky ridges and kloofs, along with wild olive, karee, rock figs and other Bankenveld woodland species.
The Bergland is truly like nowhere else on Earth and it is worth spending time here to take it all in.
* Guided Dome Drift day trips with picnic lunch. Contact +27 84 245 2490 https://vdome.co.za