09/23/2026
The Story of Waxed Cotton • Halley Stevensons
“It’s something that gets better with age.”
- Ronnie Romance, Ultranicus
For more than 160 years, Halley Stevensons Ltd | Fabric Innovation has been making weatherproof fabrics in Dundee, Scotland. What started with fabrics developed for life at sea has evolved into the waxed cotton we know today. A fabric made to be used, developing its own patina along the way.
Follow the process, step by step.
01 • The Cotton
It begins with tightly woven cotton, selected for its strength, durability and natural feel. Its dense construction provides the foundation for the wax finish while allowing the character of the cloth to remain.
The scale is striking. Rolls passing through the factory can contain 2,500 to 3,000 metres of fabric at a time before being divided into smaller lengths for manufacturers.
02 • Singeing
Before the wax ever touches the cotton, the cloth passes quickly over an open flame in a process known as singeing.
The flame burns away loose fibres and surface fuzz, leaving a cleaner, smoother surface for the stages ahead. It happens in seconds, but it is one of the many small details that determine how evenly the finished cloth will take its treatment.
03 • Dyeing & Preparation
The cotton is dyed to achieve its base colour and prepared for finishing. The aim is to create an even cloth that will accept the wax consistently while retaining its natural texture.
There is more science involved than Ronnie expected. Dye recipes are developed in the laboratory, while salt and other treatments help the colour pe*****te the cotton fibres evenly.
By the time the cloth reaches the waxing machines, its colour, surface and construction have all been carefully prepared.
04 • The Wax
Then comes the part Ronnie is most fascinated by. The cloth is warmed over large heated rollers before passing through hot wax. Standing beside the machinery, Ronnie compares the heat to being in a sauna.
There is no single recipe for waxed cotton. Halley Stevensons uses different wax formulations depending on the weight, intended use and desired character of the finished cloth. Different treatments can produce different levels of softness, sheen and texture while adding p
