What are the opening hours?

Tuesday 9am - 2pm Wednesday 9am - 1pm Thursday 9am - 1pm Friday 9am - 1pm

S & S Pools

S & S Swimming Pools is a family owned and operated business. We have been serving the Columbia and Please Note: Monday’s are our install days.

Hours of operation will be the following:
9:00 am - 12:00 pm
S & S Pools will keep all customers updated for Install Days.

10/28/2026

S&S POOLS – POOL SCHOOL: WEEK 7 💦

🧪 PHOSPHATES: THE HIDDEN NUTRIENT THAT CAN FEED ALGAE IN YOUR POOL! 🧪

Have you ever wondered why algae keeps returning to your swimming pool, even after treatment?

One factor worth investigating is PHOSPHATES!

This week, we’re explaining what phosphates are, how they enter your pool, why they matter, and how to control them.

🌿 WHAT ARE PHOSPHATES?

Phosphates are naturally occurring compounds containing phosphorus. They can enter your swimming pool through several sources, including:

🍃 Leaves, grass clippings, pollen, and other organic debris

🌧️ Rainwater, soil, and runoff

🌱 Lawn fertilizers and landscaping products

💦 Fill water from certain municipal or well-water sources

🧴 Some pool chemicals and treatment products

Phosphates themselves do not automatically turn your pool green or cloudy. However, they provide an important nutrient that algae can use to grow.

⚠️ WHY ARE HIGH PHOSPHATES A CONCERN?

Algae need nutrients, sunlight, and suitable growing conditions to thrive.

When phosphate levels are elevated, algae have access to an additional food source.

If your free chlorine level drops too low, algae may begin multiplying rapidly.

High phosphates can contribute to:

❌ Faster algae growth when sanitizer levels are inadequate

❌ Recurring algae problems

❌ Increased difficulty maintaining clear water during algae outbreaks

❌ Additional chlorine consumption when algae and other contaminants are present

IMPORTANT: Phosphates do not directly consume chlorine. Algae and other contaminants create chlorine demand. A properly chlorinated pool can remain clear even when phosphate levels are elevated.

🔬 WHAT SHOULD YOUR PHOSPHATE LEVEL BE?

Phosphates are typically measured in parts per billion (ppb) rather than parts per million (ppm).

Here is a general guide to phosphate levels:

💧 0–100 ppb: Very low phosphate levels.

💧 100–300 ppb: Relatively low levels.

💧 300–500 ppb: Moderate levels. Some pool professionals may recommend monitoring.

💧 500–1,000 ppb: Elevated levels. Phosphate removal may be considered, particularly with recurring algae problems.

💧 Above 1,000 ppb: High levels. Further investigation and possible treatment may be beneficial.

These are general phosphate-management ranges, not universal pool water standards. There is no single phosphate concentration at which algae automatically begins growing.

🧪 CAN YOUR POOL HAVE HIGH PHOSPHATES AND STILL LOOK CLEAR?

ABSOLUTELY!

A swimming pool can have elevated phosphate levels and still maintain crystal-clear water.

Why?

Because properly maintained free chlorine prevents algae from growing, even when nutrients are available.

This is why FREE CHLORINE IS YOUR MOST IMPORTANT DEFENSE AGAINST ALGAE!

Phosphate management is an additional preventive measure, not a replacement for proper water chemistry.

🛠️ HOW DO YOU REMOVE PHOSPHATES?

When phosphate removal is appropriate, pool professionals commonly use a specialized phosphate-removing product.

Many phosphate removers contain lanthanum compounds that react with dissolved phosphates, forming particles that can be captured by the filtration system.

During treatment, you may notice:

💦 Temporary cloudy or milky water

💦 Increased filter pressure as particles are collected

💦 A need for additional filter cleaning or backwashing

💦 Gradual improvement in water clarity as filtration removes the particles

Always follow the specific phosphate remover’s instructions. Treatment amounts, circulation requirements, and filter maintenance vary by product.

🚨 DOES PHOSPHATE REMOVER KILL ALGAE?

NO!

This is one of the biggest misconceptions in swimming pool maintenance.

Phosphate remover does not kill existing algae. It removes a nutrient algae need to grow.

If your pool already has an algae outbreak, the algae must be treated through proper sanitization, brushing, filtration, and water chemistry management.

Removing phosphates alone will not eliminate an active algae bloom.

💡 WHY DO PHOSPHATES SOMETIMES KEEP COMING BACK?

Even after treatment, phosphate levels can rise again because new phosphates continuously enter your swimming pool.

Common reasons include:

🍂 Trees and landscaping surrounding the pool

🌧️ Heavy rainfall and runoff

🌾 Nearby lawn fertilization

💦 Phosphates already present in the fill water

🧴 Certain pool treatment products

Routine maintenance, proper filtration, and removing organic debris can help limit phosphate accumulation.

⭐ S&S POOLS PROFESSIONAL TIP OF THE WEEK!

Before assuming phosphates are responsible for an algae problem, always evaluate the complete water chemistry.

Your pool’s:

✅ Free Chlorine (FC)

✅ Total Chlorine (TC)

✅ pH

✅ Total Alkalinity (TA)

✅ Calcium Hardness (CH)

✅ Cyanuric Acid (CYA)

All play important roles in maintaining healthy pool water.

Remember, your free chlorine level must be appropriate for your stabilizer (CYA) level.

THE BOTTOM LINE:

💙 Phosphates feed algae, but they do not cause algae to grow when proper sanitization prevents it.

💙 High phosphates do not automatically mean your pool has a problem.

💙 Phosphate removers can be useful preventive tools, especially in pools experiencing recurring algae issues.

💙 Proper chlorine levels, balanced water chemistry, circulation, and filtration should ALWAYS come first!

🌊 AT S&S POOLS, WE BELIEVE AN EDUCATED POOL OWNER IS A HAPPY POOL OWNER!

Stay tuned for more weekly pool care education from S&S Pools!

10/23/2026

S&S POOLS – WEEK 6 POOL SCHOOL! 💦

🌿 LET’S TALK ALGAE & ALGAECIDES! 🌿

Have you ever walked outside and noticed your beautiful, clear swimming pool suddenly turning green, yellow, or even black? 😱

This week, we’re discussing the different types of swimming pool algae, what causes them, how to treat them, and how algaecides can help!

🟢 1. GREEN ALGAE

Green algae is the most common type of algae found in swimming pools.

What does it look like?

* Green or cloudy water
* Slippery pool walls and floors
* Green patches on pool surfaces

What causes it?

* Low or inadequate free chlorine
* Poor circulation or filtration
* Improper water chemistry

How do you treat it?

* Brush pool walls and floors thoroughly.
* Adjust pH as needed.
* Raise and maintain chlorine to an appropriate treatment level based on your stabilizer (CYA).
* Run your filtration system and clean or backwash the filter as needed.

🟡 2. MUSTARD ALGAE (YELLOW ALGAE)

Mustard algae can be one of the most frustrating types of algae to eliminate!

What does it look like?

* Yellow, brown, or mustard-colored dust
* Usually found in shaded areas
* Easily brushes away but often returns

Why is it difficult?

Mustard algae can survive inadequate chlorine treatments and return if contaminated equipment isn’t properly cleaned.

How do you treat it?

* Thoroughly brush affected areas.
* Maintain the proper elevated chlorine level for mustard algae treatment.
* Clean pool toys, brushes, vacuum equipment, and other items that may reintroduce algae.
* Follow an appropriate mustard algae treatment procedure.

⚫ 3. BLACK ALGAE

Black algae is especially troublesome in concrete and plaster swimming pools.

What does it look like?

* Dark black or blue-green spots
* Stubborn patches attached to surfaces
* A protective outer layer that makes treatment difficult

How do you treat it?

* Aggressively brush affected areas using a brush appropriate for the pool surface.
* Maintain proper chlorine treatment levels.
* Repeat brushing and treatment as necessary.

⚠️ Black algae is uncommon on smooth fiberglass surfaces. Never use an abrasive brush that could damage your pool finish!

🌸 4. PINK ALGAE (PINK SLIME)

Did you know pink algae isn’t actually algae?

It’s typically a bacterial growth that can develop in swimming pools.

What does it look like?

* Pink or reddish slimy patches
* Growth around skimmers, ladders, lights, and plumbing fittings

How do you treat it?

* Brush and clean affected surfaces.
* Maintain appropriate sanitizer levels.
* Clean equipment and areas with limited circulation.

💧 NOW LET’S TALK ALGAECIDES!

Algaecides are chemicals designed to help prevent or control algae growth.

But remember: ALGAECIDE IS NOT A REPLACEMENT FOR CHLORINE!

🧪 Different Types of Algaecides

✅ Polyquat 60 Algaecide

* Commonly used for algae prevention
* Nonfoaming when used as directed
* Generally suitable for routine preventive treatment
* Can be useful during pool closing procedures

✅ Copper-Based Algaecides

* Effective against certain types of algae
* Sometimes used for stubborn algae problems
* Excessive copper can cause staining and discoloration
* Must be used carefully, especially in pools with existing metals

✅ Quaternary Ammonium (Quat) Algaecides

* Often economical
* Commonly used for algae prevention
* Some formulas can produce foaming
* Best used according to manufacturer instructions

✅ Specialty Algaecides

* Some products are formulated for mustard or other stubborn algae
* Treatment requirements vary by product
* Always verify compatibility with your pool surface and sanitizer

🚨 IMPORTANT POOL OWNER REMINDERS!

❌ Don’t assume every yellow or brown spot is algae. It could be pollen, dirt, or metal staining.

❌ Don’t continuously add algaecide without identifying the problem.

❌ Don’t mix pool chemicals together.

❌ Don’t assume adding more algaecide will eliminate an active algae bloom.

✅ Test your water regularly.

✅ Keep your free chlorine properly balanced with your stabilizer (CYA).

✅ Brush your pool regularly.

✅ Maintain proper circulation and filtration.

✅ Remember that chlorine is your primary defense against algae!

💙 S&S POOLS’ TIP OF THE WEEK

A properly balanced and sanitized swimming pool should not need routine algaecide treatments to stay algae-free!

Algaecides can be helpful preventive tools, but maintaining the correct chlorine-to-stabilizer relationship is the key to preventing algae growth.

🏊‍♀️ NEXT WEEK AT S&S POOL SCHOOL: Stay tuned for another lesson on keeping your swimming pool beautiful, healthy, and ready to enjoy!

S&S POOLS – Helping Our Customers Understand Their Pools, One Week at a Time!

10/16/2026

POOL SCHOOL – WEEK 5! ☀️

💦 Let’s Talk About Cyanuric Acid (CYA), Also Known as Pool Stabilizer!

Did you know the sun can destroy your pool’s chlorine in just a matter of hours?

That’s where Cyanuric Acid (CYA) comes into play!

☀️ WHAT IS CYANURIC ACID?

Cyanuric Acid, commonly called stabilizer or conditioner, protects free chlorine from being rapidly broken down by the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays.

Think of CYA as sunscreen for your chlorine!

Without adequate stabilizer, outdoor swimming pools can lose a significant amount of chlorine on a sunny day, leaving the water vulnerable to bacteria and algae growth.

💧 WHAT IS THE IDEAL CYA LEVEL?

✅ Traditional chlorine pools: 30–50 ppm

✅ Saltwater chlorine generator pools: 60–80 ppm, depending on manufacturer recommendations.

⚠️ Always follow your pool equipment manufacturer’s specifications.

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN CYA IS TOO LOW?

❌ Chlorine burns off rapidly in sunlight.

❌ More frequent chlorine additions are needed.

❌ Pool water becomes more susceptible to algae and bacteria.

❌ Maintaining a consistent free chlorine level becomes difficult.

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN CYA IS TOO HIGH?

❌ Chlorine becomes less effective at a given free chlorine concentration.

❌ Higher free chlorine levels are required to maintain proper sanitation.

❌ Algae can become more difficult to prevent.

❌ Partial draining and replacing water may be necessary to lower CYA.

🧪 HOW DO YOU INCREASE CYA?

Cyanuric Acid can be increased by adding pool stabilizer or conditioner.

Some chlorine products, including trichlor tablets and dichlor shock, also contain stabilizer and will gradually increase CYA levels with continued use.

⚠️ IMPORTANT: Calcium hypochlorite and liquid chlorine do NOT contain stabilizer.

💦 HOW DO YOU LOWER CYA?

Unlike chlorine, CYA does not simply disappear from sunlight exposure.

The most reliable way to lower excessive stabilizer is through partial water replacement with fresh water that contains little or no CYA.

Always consider groundwater conditions and pool manufacturer recommendations before draining, especially with fiberglass pools.

🚨 S&S POOLS PROFESSIONAL TIP!

More stabilizer does NOT mean better chlorine protection!

Too much CYA can create significant water chemistry problems. As stabilizer increases, the amount of free chlorine needed for effective sanitation also increases.

We recommend routinely testing your stabilizer level and maintaining the appropriate balance between free chlorine and CYA.

A properly balanced pool isn’t just about having chlorine in the water — it’s about making sure that chlorine can do its job!

💙 At S&S Pools, we believe an educated pool owner is a successful pool owner!

📚 COMING UP IN WEEK 6:

🦠 ALGAE & ALGAECIDES!

We’ll discuss the different types of swimming pool algae, how to identify them, what causes them, and the proper use of algaecides to help keep your swimming pool sparkling clean!

S&S POOLS
Building Pools. Educating Owners. Protecting Your Investment. 💦

10/09/2026

IMPORTANT NOTICE FROM S&S POOLS 🚨

INCLEMENT WEATHER & POOL OWNER RESPONSIBILITIES

With the potential for heavy rainfall and severe weather, S&S Pools would like to remind all swimming pool owners of the importance of properly monitoring and maintaining their pool’s sump line or well point system.

Heavy rainfall can cause groundwater levels to rise significantly around and beneath swimming pools. When groundwater is not properly monitored and managed, excessive hydrostatic pressure can develop, potentially resulting in serious structural damage.

⚠️ IMPORTANT HOMEOWNER RESPONSIBILITIES:

✅ Monitor your sump line or well point regularly, especially before, during, and after periods of heavy rainfall.

✅ Check for excessive groundwater accumulation around and beneath your swimming pool.

✅ Remove excess groundwater when necessary, following the proper procedures and manufacturer’s recommendations.

✅ Maintain the appropriate water level inside your swimming pool. Never drain or significantly lower your pool when groundwater levels are elevated without professional guidance.

✅ Ensure drainage systems remain clear and operational to help prevent excessive groundwater buildup.

⚠️ FAILURE TO MONITOR GROUNDWATER CAN RESULT IN:

* Bulging or deformation of fiberglass pool walls and floors.
* Movement or shifting of the swimming pool shell.
* Damage to surrounding decking and structures.
* In extreme cases, lifting or displacement of the entire swimming pool.

PLEASE UNDERSTAND:

A sump line or well point is installed to provide a means of monitoring and managing groundwater conditions surrounding your swimming pool.

The ongoing inspection, monitoring, and proper use of this system are the responsibility of the swimming pool owner.

S&S Pools strongly encourages every homeowner to familiarize themselves with their sump line or well point and understand its importance in protecting their investment.

Groundwater-related damage resulting from improper monitoring or maintenance may not be covered under applicable manufacturer or installation warranties. Homeowners should review their specific warranty terms.

PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT!

Owning a swimming pool comes with ongoing maintenance responsibilities that extend beyond water chemistry and routine cleaning. Groundwater management is a critical part of protecting the structural integrity of your swimming pool.

S&S POOLS
Quality Construction • Customer Education • Protecting Your Investment

Remember: Preventative maintenance today can help prevent costly damage tomorrow.

10/07/2026

💦 WEEK 4 POOL LESSON: CHLORINES💦 💦

We’ve talked about Calcium Hardness, Total Alkalinity, and pH — now it’s time for Week 4: CHLORINES🧪

🏊 What is Free Chlorine?

Free Chlorine (FC) is the chlorine in your pool water that is available and ready to sanitize.

Think of it as your pool’s active defense system! 🛡️

Free chlorine helps:
• Kill bacteria and germs
• Control algae
• Keep your water clean and sanitary
• Protect swimmers from contaminants

🧪 Free Chlorine vs. Total Chlorine

Free Chlorine = chlorine available to sanitize
Combined Chlorine = chlorine that has reacted with contaminants
Total Chlorine = Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorine

👉 Ideally, your Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine readings should be the same or very close.

If Total Chlorine is higher than Free Chlorine, you may have combined chlorine (chloramines) in the water.

☀️ What Causes Free Chlorine to Drop?

• Sunlight/UV exposure
• Heavy swimmer use
• Rain and storms
• Leaves and organic debris
• Algae or bacteria
• Improper water balance

⚠️ What Happens When Free Chlorine is Too Low?

❌ Algae can begin growing
❌ Water may become cloudy
❌ Bacteria can multiply
❌ The pool may develop an unpleasant odor
❌ Water may become unsafe for swimming

💡 POOL OWNER TIP

A strong “chlorine smell” doesn’t necessarily mean there is too much free chlorine. That smell can be associated with chloramines, which form when chlorine reacts with contaminants.

Test your water — don’t guess! 🧪

But where does free chlorine come from? Two common methods are salt chlorine generators and chlorine tablets.

🧂 SALT SYSTEMS

A saltwater pool is still a chlorine pool!

A salt chlorine generator uses electricity to convert chloride from dissolved salt into chlorine. That chlorine creates the free chlorine that sanitizes the pool.

✅ Produces chlorine automatically while the system is operating
✅ Provides a more continuous source of chlorine
✅ Reduces the need to routinely add chlorine tablets
⚠️ You still need to test and maintain the proper free chlorine level
⚠️ Salt cells require inspection and periodic cleaning when scale develops

💊 CHLORINE TABLETS

Chlorine tablets dissolve gradually and release chlorine into the water.

Most residential tablets are trichlor, which also contain cyanuric acid (stabilizer).

✅ Convenient and slow-dissolving
✅ Easy way to provide chlorine
⚠️ Regular tablet use can gradually increase CYA/stabilizer
⚠️ Trichlor is acidic and can contribute to lower pH and total alkalinity
⚠️ High CYA can make it necessary to maintain a higher free-chlorine level for effective sanitation

🧪 THE IMPORTANT PART

Whether your chlorine comes from a salt system or tablets, FREE CHLORINE is what does the sanitizing.

The pool doesn’t care how the chlorine got there — what matters is maintaining an appropriate Free Chlorine level for your pool’s CYA level and keeping the rest of your water chemistry balanced. WEEK 5 we will go over CYA!

💡 S&S POOLS TIP:
Don’t assume a salt pool has enough chlorine just because the salt system is running. Test your Free Chlorine regularly!

🧂 Salt System → Generates Chlorine → Free Chlorine
💊 Tablets → Release Chlorine → Free Chlorine

Different delivery methods. Same goal: clean, properly sanitized pool water! 💦

Maintaining the proper Free Chlorine level along with balanced pH and alkalinity helps your sanitizer do its job.

Salt chlorine generators reduce or stop chlorine production when the water gets too cold, but the exact cutoff depends on the manufacturer/model.

For many residential systems, the cutoff is roughly 50–60°F.

💦 Balanced water = Clear water + Protected equipment + Happier swimmers!

We hear Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine all the time — but what’s the difference? 🧪

Review on 🟢 FREE CHLORINE

Free Chlorine (FC) is the chlorine that is still available and ready to sanitize your pool.

It helps fight:
• Bacteria 🦠
• Algae 🌿
• Germs
• Swimmer contaminants

Whether your pool uses a salt system or chlorine tablets, the goal is the same: maintain enough Free Chlorine to properly sanitize the water.

🔵 TOTAL CHLORINE

Total Chlorine (TC) measures ALL of the chlorine in the water.

The simple formula is:

TOTAL CHLORINE = FREE CHLORINE + COMBINED CHLORINE

🟡 WHAT IS COMBINED CHLORINE?

Combined Chlorine is chlorine that has already reacted with contaminants in the water, forming compounds called chloramines.

You can calculate it:

Total Chlorine − Free Chlorine = Combined Chlorine

Example:

Free Chlorine = 3 ppm
Total Chlorine = 3 ppm

3 − 3 = 0 ppm Combined Chlorine ✅

That’s what we like to see!

But if:

Free Chlorine = 2 ppm
Total Chlorine = 3 ppm

3 − 2 = 1 ppm Combined Chlorine ⚠️

That tells us some chlorine has combined with contaminants and the pool may need attention.

👃 “BUT MY POOL SMELLS LIKE CHLORINE!”

A strong chlorine odor doesn’t necessarily mean there’s too much Free Chlorine.

That familiar “chlorine smell” can actually be associated with chloramines.

💡 S&S POOLS TIP

Don’t look at Total Chlorine alone!

👉 FREE CHLORINE is the number that tells you how much chlorine is available to sanitize.

Ideally, Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine should be the same or very close.

For a typical residential pool:

* Free Chlorine (FC): 1–4 ppm is a commonly recommended range.
* Total Chlorine (TC): Ideally, it should be the same as or very close to Free Chlorine.
Combined Chlorine (CC): Ideally 0 ppm; generally you want it below 0.5 ppm.

🧪 Test it. Balance it. Enjoy it.

🧪 Next week we’ll discuss CYA (Cyanuric Acid), also known as stabilizer — and why we like to call it “chlorine’s sunscreen.” ☀️

We’ll cover what CYA does, why your chlorine needs it and what happens when it gets too high or too low.

10/06/2026

🎃👻 SPOOKY GOOD OCTOBER DEAL! 👻🎃

No tricks — just treats from S&S Pools! 💦

For the entire month of October, purchase a pool package and we’ll include your pool maintenance equipment:

🧹 Pool Pole
🍂 Skim Net
🍁 Deep Rake Net
🫧 Pool Brush
💦 Manual Vacuum
〰️ Vacuum Hose

Everything you need to help keep your new pool looking clean and beautiful — included with your pool package!

👻 Don’t let this Spooky Deal disappear!
Offer available on qualifying pool packages purchased during the month of October.

🎃 S&S Pools — Making backyard dreams come true! 💦

09/30/2026

💦 WEEK 3 POOL LESSON: pH 💦

This week we’re talking about one of the most important parts of balanced pool water — pH!

pH tells you how acidic or basic (alkaline) a liquid is.

The pH scale usually runs from 0 to 14:

* pH < 7 → acidic, like lemon juice
* pH = 7 → neutral, like pure water
* pH > 7 → basic/alkaline, like soapy water

In chemistry, pH is related to the concentration (more precisely, activity) of hydrogen ions, H⁺. A lower pH means greater acidity.

🏊‍♂️ pH in Pool Water

pH is one of the most important measurements in pool water. It tells you whether your pool water is too acidic or too alkaline and directly affects swimmer comfort, chlorine effectiveness, and your pool equipment.

Ideal pool pH: 7.2–7.6
A common target is 7.4, which is close to the natural pH of your eyes.

Keeping pool pH in the proper range can help reduce eye burning and irritation.

For most pools, the recommended pH range is 7.2–7.6, with around 7.4 being close to the natural pH of the human eye.

However, eye burning isn’t caused by pH alone. Chlorine level, chloramines, and overall water balance can also contribute.

🏊‍♂️ Simple S&S Pools explanation:

“Proper pH isn’t just about protecting your pool—it helps protect your swimmers’ eyes and skin, too.”

If pH is too low

⬇️ Below 7.2

* Water becomes acidic
* Can irritate eyes and skin
* May corrode metal components and equipment
* Can damage some pool surfaces
* Chlorine can become overly aggressive

If pH is too high

⬆️ Above 7.6

* Chlorine becomes less effective
* Water can become cloudy
* Calcium scale can form
* Swimmers may experience eye/skin irritation

🧪 How alkalinity fits in

Think of total alkalinity as the “father” and pH as the “son.”

Alkalinity helps buffer and stabilize pH. If alkalinity isn’t in the proper range, your pH can constantly drift up or down.

For most pools, total alkalinity is generally maintained around 80–120 ppm, although the ideal range can vary somewhat by pool type and chemistry system.

🏊‍♂️ POOL CHEMISTRY LESSON: HOW TO RAISE pH IN YOUR POOL WATER! 🧪

This week, we’re talking about how to safely raise your pool’s pH when it tests below the recommended range.

✅ BEFORE ADDING pH INCREASER
• DO test your pool water first.
• DO confirm that the pH is below 7.2–7.6.
• DO check your total alkalinity, since it helps stabilize pH.
• DO read and follow the product label carefully.
• DO calculate the correct amount based on your pool size and test results.

For pool water:

* To raise pH: use pH increaser, usually sodium carbonate (soda ash).
* To lower pH: use pH decreaser, usually sodium bisulfate (dry acid). Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) can also lower pH.
* Using strictly baking soda can cause a bouncing up and down of your ph so make sure to visit your pool care professional.

S&S Pools on muriatic acid! Here at S&S Pools, we don’t like to the use of muriatic acid.

⚠️ Safety: Muriatic acid is highly corrosive. Never mix it with chlorine or other pool chemicals, and follow the product label for handling, storage, dosage, and application.

We do not recommend pouring muriatic acid in a fiberglass pool. Sodium Bisulfate is a safer way of bringing pH down.

Sodium bisulfate is a dry acid commonly used in swimming pools to lower pH and, with sufficient dosing, lower total alkalinity.

🏊‍♂️ Sodium Bisulfate — Pool Uses

* 🔽 Lowers pH when the pH is too high.
* 🔽 Can lower total alkalinity when TA is too high.
🧂 It’s often sold as “pH Down,” “pH Reducer,” or “dry acid.”

Typical target: 7.2–7.6.

One important distinction: soda ash raises pH significantly, while sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is primarily used to raise total alkalinity and has much less effect on pH.

✅ HOW TO ADD pH INCREASER
• Turn on the pool pump and allow the water to circulate.
• Measure the recommended amount of pH increaser.
• Add the product according to the label directions.
• Add the chemical carefully to avoid splashing.
• Allow the water to circulate for the recommended amount of time.
• Retest the water before adding more product.

❌ pH INCREASER DON’TS
• DON’T add pH increaser without testing first.
• DON’T guess at the dosage.
• DON’T add more than the product label recommends.
• DON’T mix pH increaser with other pool chemicals.
• DON’T add chemicals directly on top of one another.
• DON’T swim until the product has fully dissolved and the water has been retested according to the label directions.
• DON’T forget to wear appropriate protective equipment and store chemicals safely.

💡 Remember:
The ideal pool pH range is generally 7.2–7.6. Add pH increaser gradually, allow the water to circulate, and always retest before making another adjustment.

🏊‍♂️ POOL CHEMISTRY LESSON: pH DO’S & DON’TS! 🧪

This week, we’re talking about pH — one of the most important parts of keeping your pool water balanced!

✅ pH DO’S
• DO test your pH regularly.
• DO keep your pH around 7.2–7.6.
• DO check alkalinity when your pH is difficult to maintain.
• DO make adjustments gradually and retest.
• DO follow the product label when adding chemicals.
• DO keep your pump circulating when adding chemicals, according to the product directions.
• DO keep an eye on your water clarity, swimmer comfort, and pool equipment.

❌ pH DON’TS
• DON’T let your pH stay too low for extended periods.
• DON’T let your pH stay too high for extended periods.
• DON’T add chemicals without testing first.
• DON’T guess at chemical amounts.
• DON’T mix pool chemicals together.
• DON’T pour different chemicals into the same container.
• DON’T forget that alkalinity helps stabilize pH.

💡 Remember:
Alkalinity is the father, pH is the son.
Keep your alkalinity balanced and your pH will be much easier to control!

🏊‍♂️ S&S Pools — helping you understand your pool, one chemical at a time!

09/25/2026

The office will be closed today, September 25th. We do apologize for the inconvenience.

09/23/2026

💧 Week 2:
Pool Chemistry Lesson: Total Alkalinity

🏊‍♀️ Why Total Alkalinity Is Important in Your Pool

Total alkalinity is the pool water’s “pH buffer.” It helps prevent your pH from bouncing around and keeps your water chemistry stable.

Why it matters:

* 🧪 Stabilizes pH: Helps prevent rapid pH swings.
* 🛡️ Protects your pool and equipment: Proper balance helps reduce the risk of corrosion from low pH or scaling from high pH.
* 👀 Improves swimmer comfort: Properly balanced water is generally less irritating to eyes and skin.
* 💧 Makes chlorine work more consistently: Stable pH allows chlorine to perform more effectively.
* 🧱 Helps prevent scaling: Keeping alkalinity and pH in balance helps reduce calcium scale on surfaces and equipment.

🏊‍♀️ POOL CHEMISTRY LESSON

🧪 Alkalinity is the Father.

💧 pH is the Son.

Think of alkalinity as the foundation that helps control and stabilize pH.

Alkalinity acts as a buffer, helping prevent pH from making sudden swings. When alkalinity is properly balanced, maintaining your pH becomes much easier.

👉 Alkalinity = stability
👉 pH = the actual acidic/basic balance of the water

💡 The bottom line:
Get your alkalinity balanced, and your pH has a much better chance of staying where it belongs.

Typical target: For many residential pools, total alkalinity is maintained around 80–120 ppm, although the ideal range can vary depending on the pool surface, sanitizer system, and manufacturer’s recommendations.

For total alkalinity, the target isn’t determined solely by whether the pool is vinyl, gunite, or fiberglass. The sanitizer system and overall water chemistry also matter. But these are good general residential targets:

Pool Type Typical Total Alkalinity Range
Vinyl liner 80–120 ppm
Gunite / plaster 80–120 ppm
Fiberglass 80–120 ppm

🧪 A practical target

For many residential pools, 80–100 ppm is a good working range, particularly when you’re trying to keep pH stable without encouraging excessive scaling.

Important: Gunite/plaster pools can require especially careful attention to calcium hardness, pH, and alkalinity together, because all three contribute to the water’s saturation balance and protection of the plaster surface.

For a fiberglass pool, don’t assume that because the surface is nonporous you can ignore alkalinity. Proper alkalinity still helps stabilize pH and maintain balanced water.

🧪 What Happens When Pool Alkalinity Is Too High or Too Low?

⬇️ When alkalinity is too LOW:

* pH can swing up and down quickly
* pH may become difficult to keep stable
* Water can become corrosive
* It can contribute to damage of metal components and pool surfaces
* Swimmers may experience eye or skin irritation
* You may find yourself constantly chasing the pH

⬆️ When alkalinity is too HIGH:

* pH can become difficult to lower
* pH tends to drift upward
* Cloudy water can occur
* Higher pH and calcium levels can increase the potential for calcium scaling
* The water can become more difficult to keep chemically balanced

🏊‍♀️ Easy way to remember:

LOW alkalinity = unstable pH
HIGH alkalinity = stubborn/high pH

That’s why alkalinity is often described as the buffer that keeps your pH stable.

🏊‍♀️ How alkalinity is applied in pool maintenance

* Stabilizes pH: Alkalinity helps prevent pH from changing too rapidly.
* Protects against acidic conditions: It neutralizes acids that enter the pool, including those produced when certain sanitizers are used.
* Helps maintain consistent water chemistry: Proper alkalinity makes it easier to keep pH in the desired range.
* Protects surfaces and equipment: Proper balance helps reduce the potential for corrosive or scaling conditions.

Supports sanitizer performance: Keeping pH stable helps chlorine function as intended.

🧪 How to Add Alkalinity to Pool Water

Step-by-step:

1. Test the water first.
Know your current alkalinity level before adding anything.
2. Determine how much is needed.
Use the product’s dosage instructions based on your pool’s gallons and current alkalinity.
3. Add the alkalinity increaser gradually.
Don’t dump a large amount in all at once.
4. Add it with the pool circulating.
Distribute the chemical according to the product/manufacturer directions.
5. Allow the water to circulate.
Give the chemical time to disperse before testing again.
6. Retest total alkalinity and pH.
Make additional adjustments only if testing shows they’re necessary.

🏊‍♀️ POOL CHEMISTRY LESSON: ALKALINITY — DO’S & DON’TS

✅ ALKALINITY DO’S

✔️ DO test your alkalinity regularly.
Keeping an eye on it helps you maintain stable pH.

✔️ DO adjust alkalinity gradually.
Small adjustments are better than making a large correction all at once.

✔️ DO balance alkalinity before chasing pH problems.
If alkalinity is significantly out of range, getting it balanced can make managing pH much easier.

✔️ DO follow your pool manufacturer’s recommended range.
Different pools and sanitizer systems can have different targets.

✔️ DO allow chemicals to circulate properly after adding them.
Give your pool time to mix before retesting.

❌ ALKALINITY DON’TS

🚫 DON’T assume alkalinity and pH are the same thing.
They work together, but they are two different measurements.

🚫 DON’T dump large amounts of alkalinity increaser into the pool at once.
More isn’t always better.

🚫 DON’T continually add chemicals without testing first.
You can create an imbalance by treating a problem that isn’t actually there.

🚫 DON’T ignore high alkalinity.
High alkalinity can make pH difficult to control and may contribute to scaling.

🚫 DON’T ignore low alkalinity.
Low alkalinity can allow pH to fluctuate rapidly and can contribute to corrosive water conditions.

💡 REMEMBER:
Alkalinity = pH stability.
Keeping it properly balanced makes maintaining the rest of your pool chemistry much easier!

🏊‍♀️ S&S Pools — Helping you understand your pool, one chemical at a time!

Next week, we’ll take a deeper dive into pH and explain what every pool owner needs to know to maintain balanced water and protect their pool and equipment.

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