Lattice Training

Sorry not sorry 😈

Always read the footnotes...

Always thank your parents...

In a recent YouTube video Will Bosi told us he rarely does weighted pull-ups anymore - he only does them for the camera when he's filming with us. Erin McNeice said similar.

We tested them anyway 😉

Will pulled 180% of his bodyweight. Erin pulled 170%.

In an analysis of our elite remote assessment datapool (n=733 in this particular dataset) weighted pull-up 2RM from V9 to V12 strength improves by only 2%. It barely moves over 3 whole grades. Interestingly, at V14 it jumps up again significantly.

This V14 number does stand out... although it's worth noting this comes from a small sample (n=14), so it's more indicative than conclusive but it suggests a few things potentially.

❓V14 boulders may be the common ceiling for problems limited by pure finger strength. Beyond this grade, you may need elite finger strength AND elite upper body strength/power?

❓V14 boulders are over-conditioned?

❓There are more power-based boulders at V14 that are limited by pull strength rather than finger strength?

❓Something else entirely…?

At the end of the day, every exercise selection has to answer one main question: will this affect your performance in the long run? In essence, is there a ‘payoff’ to the work that you put in.

Below the gold standards, weighted pull-ups almost certainly DO return on the investment. Past it, that hour may be better spent on fingers, movement, or other prime mover muscles.

Join thousands of others in taking a full Lattice Assessment to see where your pull-up strength sits and whether your training time is better spent elsewhere?! Tests include finger strength, energy systems, flexibility and conditioning. All referenced against the largest dataset in climbing 📊

See link for more details!

Left/right finger-strength asymmetry, measured across 1,007 unilateral and 36,419 bilateral assessments from our client testing data 📊📈

Asymmetry is NORMAL! 👀

We have been saying this since we first started testing at Lattice and we’ve also observed this as a common factor across many sports when it comes to the research literature. Because we’re data geeks, we thought we’d double check our own test data for any interesting patterns that might occur and lead us away from the conclusion of “treat all athlete bilateral asymmetry similarly.”

✅ Asymmetry vs Grade: no significance
✅ Asymmetry vs Age: no significance
✅ Asymmetry vs Gender: no significance

The big question should be - when is it abnormal or a “problem” though? Some research indicates that injury risk increased when bilateral differences increased above 10%. Our own observations and coaching experience have led us to similar conclusions based on both testing and training climbers at all levels in the last decade or so. Our rule of thumb even back then was “If the KG on one side is greater than the other by >10% then take a closer look at other factors.”

What can you do if you see large differences?

▶️ Speak to a medical expert specialising in sports to explore further
▶️ Speak to your coach or trainer
▶️ Address differences through strength training
▶️ Adjust training protocols (especially intensity) for bilateral asymmetry
▶️ Strategise climbing performance around your metrics

Full analysis and breakdown on our website blog page.

“Over the last few years, I’ve realised that what I truly seek in climbing is no longer just the pure difficulty, but the overall experience.”

For Marco Sappa, a rare four days away with his wife Giada became exactly that. A chance to step out of daily routine, return to the feeling that first shaped their shared passion for climbing, and experience some of the best crack lines in Val Bavona, Ticino.

The main goal was Butterfly Circus 8b, a flawless 25 metre crack first discovered by Fred Moix and Didier Berthod in 2021, and freed by Fred in 2022.

Marco described it as “one of the most beautiful and reference crack lines in the Alps”, cutting through the wall in a surreal, increasingly overhanging parabola.

On his first day, he was so psyched that he believed a flash might be possible. He climbed close to the top, but fell “completely pumped”. Instead of forcing another tired attempt, he rested, came back fresh, and on his third go overall, everything clicked.

Butterfly Circus 8b, climbed in two sessions.

And that was not the only highlight. During the same trip, Marco also onsighted Fratanger, a constantly overhanging 50 degree crack. Without the perfect rack of cams, he had to manage small runouts, trust less than ideal placements, and rely fully on his experience.

“Pulling off a pure onsight on such a steep, demanding line in those conditions felt amazing.”

What makes this even more impressive is that the trip was completely improvised. Marco had not been preparing specifically for crack climbing, but after years of working with Lattice coach Raf, he says the biggest value has been feeling “in great shape and completely injury free”, with a strong baseline that lets him perform across different styles when the opportunity appears.

“It gives me the consistency to be ready whenever the opportunity arises, no matter the style. Huge credit to Raf for managing this balance so perfectly!”

Massive congratulations Marco. What a beautiful reminder that training is not always about preparing for one exact route. Sometimes, it is about building the robustness, confidence and consistency to say yes when the right adventure appears.

Climber:
Coach: Raf
Routes: Butterfly Circus 8b and Fratanger
Location: Val Bavona, Ticino
Route opener:

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